Unfortunately we cannot definitely answer your question without knowing more about your telescope, for example brand,. backfocus and rear thread. Please try to find this out by contacting the manufacturer of your telescope, and contact a Baader Planetarium dealer/distributor in your country

We are very sorry we have no filters with threads for mounting on lenses of compact cameras. You can make your own filter with an sheet of AstroSolar 20x30cm https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/solar/whitelight/astrosolar-safety-film-od-5.0-(20x29-100x50-117x117-cm).html or you can check if one of our ASTF or ASBF filters https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/solar/whitelight.html
fits for your needs. For this, you need to measure the diameter of your cameras front lens and compare with the values in this table https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/299/product/2986/baader_solar_filters_clamping_range.pdf

Unfortunately we have no information about the threads on your telescope focuser. Therefore we cannot answer your question. Please contact the manufacturer he should be able to tell you the thread, then you can choose the right clamp from the list

At half bandwith. The 10 nm O III filters were done with older coating technology, hence peak transmission was around 85% - which might be the core of your question. The newer 9 nm O III filters are three cavity filters with steeper slopes, higher peak transmission and better off band blocking – it is another coating technology alltogether.

We must point out that purchasing the ERF from another source can lead to a repair becoming chargeable in the event of a defect during the warranty and guarantee period.

A normal ERF is cheaper to buy. But it does not have the same specifications as our DERF: Simple ERF filters are made of solid-colored red glass (Schott RG 610 or RG 630). This glass is a long-pass filter; it allows all energy to pass through from approx. 570 nm, including the full thermal radiation (NIR) above 630 nm.

The heat at the focal point is three times higher with this type of "protective glass" than with our dielectrically blocked D-ERF filter. As a result, the immersion oil in the stack of block glasses, polarizers and etalon in the H-alpha filter literally is getting boiled. An H-alpha filter that is permanently overheated in this way ages very quickly. We would not be able to maintain our 5-year warranty under any circumstances.

Incidentally, the colored glass from which these simple ERFs are made is very "soft" and chemically unstable (= prone to weathering). The soft molten glass tends to form streaks. When we were still working with this glass, we had to double-pass test each piece on the optical bench and had a high reject rate. This means that simpler ERF filters age due to the oxygen in the air if they are not coated, the surface becomes "rough" after a few years and the image contrast collapses.

The problem with the glass quality of the RG 610 remains even if a UV/IR-reducing coating is vapor-deposited. We have already done this many years ago as C-ERF filter (= Cool ERF), but after long-term experience we abandoned it again and the lesson learned was the development of the D-ERF (Dielectric ERF). Above all, the soft glass often warped during coating, which led to even more rejects.

There are manufacturers who offer such ERF or C-ERF filters but do not test every lens as thoroughly as we did on the optical bench. This explains the cheap offers of C-ERF and ERF filters on the market - for which the customer ultimately pays much more than if he had purchased a high-quality DERF, with significantly reduced image quality and reduced service life of the Halpha filter.
Our D-ERF filters are made of highly homogeneous, streak-free, finely polished BK-7 glass. They are painstakingly coated with a dielectric coating system that is resistant to ageing and precisely matched to the Solar Spectrum filters.

The Solar Spectrum filter only shows its most important advantages (ageing resistance, sharpness and contrast) with our dielectric „D“-ERF coating system were we have full control over the coating process and can verify it´s effectivity. Only then can we guarantee for the 5 years of ageing resistance for the Solar Spectrum H-alpha etalon-stack. Especially with a research grade filter, usage of a "normal" ERF is tantamount to "degrading" the filter. Every chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

There is no back- or frontside on our AstroSolar film. It is equally coated on both sides, so you can use it either way for building your solar filter.

You can try heating the thread on top slightly to loosen the threads from each other due to the additional expansion. Alternatively, you can find so-called Band Wrench / Universal Rubber Pipe Wrench Tools with which you can tackle very short threads in many well-known internet stores.

The current version of the QHY268C camera is also equipped with the new hotplate placement and is therefore unfortunately no longer compatible with the FCCT II. We are already working on an FCCT III version, but due to the large number of projects, it will take some time to finalise the FCCT III.

The FCCT III is still on our to-do list. However, due to other major projects, the final implementation will still take some time. We are currently not expecting a final product this year. You will be informed immediately via our newsletter as soon as the final product is available.

We recommend to remove any lenses which are installed close to the focusser as long as the manufacturer does not claim that they are suitable for projecting the sun. There is a risk that either the lenses will not tolerate the concentrated heat and break, or that some sealent is used to glue the lenses together which deteriorates when it gets hot (like canada balsam), or that some elements of the housing are made of plastic or a colour which can melt or evaporate when the beam of light reaches the lens cell or the inside of the tube walls.

The consumed back focus of this clamp is the optical length, which is between 29 – 35,5mm.

Yes - you'll receive the eyepieces with all their accessories and packaging plus the case.

There is no back- or frontside on our AstroSolar film. It is equally coated on both sides, so you can use it either way for building your solar filter.

No unfortunately not, the mirror is not big enough. For further information please see the manual https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1568/product/4285/instruction_manual_baader_flipmirror_ii_star_diagonal.pdf

We don´t think so. The OPTEC controller is only for OPTEC focusers

We are very sorry it is not possible to easily exchange the adaptor, therefore we do not offer these separately

These informations might help you with your project https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/optical-tube-lengths-of-2-clicklock-and-bbhs-mirror-diagonals/

We are very sorry, we do not know of any OAG that works for your purposes. There may be one on the market, but unfortunately we do not always have an overview of all the details of other companies' products, for which we ask for your understanding.

You need
2" BDS-RT Baader Diamond Steeltrack Focuser # 2957210
EITHER RT-Adapter M90x1.5 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957284 OR RT-Adapter M90x1 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957283
Baader Standard Base - for MQR III & IV & for V-Bracket, and for all Vixen-style finderscope mount bases # 2457000 (see page 14 in the manual for installation)

Unfortunately, Sky-Watcher uses two similar threads, so we have to ask you check which one is used on your telescope. To do so, please unscrew your current focuser and check if the tube has got a M90x1 or M90x1.5 thread. For measurung the thread, please check https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/clicklock-clamp-for-your-telescope/ where we describe the measuring method with an image.

After almost two decades, we have decided to discontinue our Canon astro upgrade service, as the demand for modified cameras has decreased significantly over the last years. Unfortunately we do not offer filters for Canon 5D anymore

No, the S70 system is used specifically for our UFC filter slider system and does not fit directly to the Celestron off-axis guider.

The Celestron off-axis guider is supplied with the following adapters: SCT/EdgeHD, female M48, female M42 (T-thread), male M48, male M42 (T-thread), 3 T-thread spacers. If you want to use the UFC filter system after the off-axis guider, you must use our Baader UFC S70 / M48 (f) telescope adapter and for example the Baader Conversion Ring M48a/M48a.

The glasspath corrector works similar to a Barlow (although the optical details are different), and its magnification factor depends on the distance to the eyepiece (see e.g. https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/barlow-lenses-their-magnification-factors-and-working-distances/ ). So, if you place a GPC farther away, its magnification changes. They are designed for a specific distance, but work quite well in different distances, too.
For such applications, they can be mounted between two T-2-threads of many T-2-adapters (e.g. between two T-2-extension tubes), their collar is then clamped between the two parts.

No its not possible to use it with TEC ED - and its no stock item either. AstroPhysics can´t tell us a delivery time at the moment

There may be a slight decrease in eye relief with the Hyperions when used with an extension, but it is barely noticeable - the eyepiece can still be used comfortably with glasses.

A conventional Barlow lens will not do the job, you will need a telecentric system. Here the explanation https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/the-benefits-of-telecentric-systems/
We have no 1,5x telecentric. The only way to reach f/30 is step down the aperture. Please note that by all means you need an DERF filter in front of your telescope when attaching an Halpha filter! Or the telescope and the filter will be damaged servely.

The filter is perfect for your needs! For buying our filters in the US please contact any dealer that sells our products or our distributor www.alpineastro.com.

The filters have been proven to survive even -25C please see here https://astrosolar.com/en/information/news-en/solar-eclipse-adventure-in-svalbard/ If you are from US And have more questions, feel free to contact our US distributor www.alpineastro.com

We haven't thought about a solution for this use-case yet. The UFC needs about 16mm of back focus, and an adapter to a camera bayonet also need some space - as the Nikon-F-bayonet only has got 46,5mm of back focus, there aren't many cameras which would work with such a setup.

We do have an adapter to use these lenses with C-Mount cameras (C-Mount Nikon # 2958535), but nothing for larger cameras or even a filter drawer.

The glass size or our unmounted 2" filters is 47.4 x 2 mm

We are sorry, but a reducer will not have the desired effect. It does not only reduce the folcal length, but it also reduces the image itself. The Alan Gee has an ideal image circle of 15mm and works fine with cameras up to APS-C (15x22mm sensor size), where some vignetting can be removed via flats and post-processing. You can see an example image in the manual.
Even if you use a 1.25" eyepiece like a 32mm Plössl, the eyepiece has got a field stop (image circle) of ca. 26mm, so that the image of the telescope with the Alan Gee will be smaller than the field of view of the eyepiece. A 2" eyepiece will gibe you an even wider field of view.
The best way for a wider field of view is a 2" eyepiece which has got long focal length and a large field stop - about 45mm are possible with 2" due to the diameter of the field stop, so our 36mm Hyperion Aspheric 2" # 2454636 and a Celestron Omni Okular 2" 56mm, 47° fov # 810248 will show the same part of the sky, only at different magnifications (and thus different apparent fields of view).
For visual use, you are better of with an eyepiece with a long focal length instead of a reducer, the result is the same. A reducer is mainly helpful for cameras with a rather small sensor, when the telescope without reducer has got a much larger image circle than the diameter of the camera sensor. With an eyepiece a reducer will give you a brighter, but smaller image and not a larger true field of view when compared to a longe eyepiece (which is also much easier to handle than a reducer)

Yes, the T2-mirror also only reflects between 400 and 700nm just like the 2" ClickLock mirror, so you don't need an additional UV/IR-cut. The PDF is correct.
You do not need an additional UV/IR-cut-filter - when used with a telescope, the AstroSolar film is safe. But the mirror diagonal gives you additional safety just like a UV/IR-filter, and you can observe the sun safely.

It is theoretically possible to rotate the camera by loosening the screws, but there is a risk that the screws will be loosened too far and the camera and adapter will fall out of the mounting. If you want to rotate the camera in this way, you must be very careful and always stabilise the camera with your other hand. Your plan is therefore at your own risk.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. The download file has now been fixed.

We recommend to use the webinterface as described in our manual. To use the additional methods to control the OMS Nano, you can find all necessary information in the manufacurers manual of the board. Controlling via ASCII is described on page 6 and 7: https://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/files/eth002.pdf

Yes, the AstroSolar Safety Film can be used to build a solar filter for your binoculars or camera lens. DIY-instructions are included.

Please scroll down on the page and click on the "Downloads" tab. There you find the OD logarithmic files for all photometric filters for download after registering.

With this barlow lense (or any other) it doesn´t work. Without barlow it works fine - we testet it with the "spotting scope adapter A" #5, please
refer manual page 5: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/356/product/3117/description_and_recommended_accessories_for_the_hyperion_universal_zoom_mark_iv.pdf
Besides of this you can find on page 11 following words:
Please note: The Barlow element can only be used with telescopes,not with spotting scopes!

Our UHC-L filter can be used both as a L-filter for mono cameras to increase contrast, and as a light pollution filter for standard OSC colour cameras. It is therefore also perfectly suited for OSC cameras.

The MPCC spacer ring only works with the Protective Ring for Canon, our Wide T-Rings - it doesn't have an M48-thread on both sides, but the dove tail fits into the dovetail of our T-2-rings. It may work with other T-2-rings if they use the same dovetail to make the thread rotatable - but there is no standard dovetail.
If you screw a camera directly to the M48-thread, it will be too close to the lenses, and there will be distorted stars, so you need a spacer.
The best option would be the use of a standard T-ring instead of an M48-ring, or - more expensive - a wide T-ring plus the M48-spacer.

Yes, this is possible. If you remove the 2" ClickLock and 2" Barrel, you will reveal the same adapter on both sides, with M55 male and 2" SCT female thread. We have two adapters that can convert this female 2" thread into a female T-2 thread:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/baader-expansion-ring-2%22at-2i-with-1mm-optical-path-length-(t-2-part-28).html
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/2%22a--t-2i-zero-length-reducing-piece-(no-optical-height).html

The 96,2mm for 3x are measured from the base of the thread to the camera sensor, so you need to take the backfocus of the camera in account, too.
E.g., if you use a DSLR with a standard T-ring, it has a flange focal length of 55mm, so you need an extension of 96,2-55=41,2mm between the camera and the FFC to get to 3x. That is, with a 40mm T-2-extension #1508153, you're pretty close to 3x; if you want it perfect, you can add another 1mm T-2 fine adjustment ring (#2457910).
The FFC is inserted into the 2" eyepiece clamp of your telescope.
Instead of a T-2-extension with a fixed length, you can use a sturdy, small focuser or something like our VariLocks, too. As long as there is no tilt, it doesn't matter how you achieve the desired distance.

Transmission of a polarizer is varying depending on the rotational position in the lightpath as well due to added polarizing effects of the imaging optics itself. We do not have info on transmission values sorry to say.
Traditionally the glass-embedded polarising plastic-film inside any such filter will only transmit sufficiently in the range from 400 to 700 nm. We have no information within our field of amateur astronomy about poarisers covering the UV – nor UV and VIS together.

Concluding we think that using our (nor other common) polarizers for your intended purpose would not at all yield satisfying results.

Unfortunately, it would go beyond the scope of an answer to a product inquiry to provide a detailed physical explanation of the necessity of f/30 for etalon filters. However, it is a fact that this is the prerequisite for creating contrast in Halpha, especially on the surface of the sun. Even with f/2 or f/1 telecentric systems, which can indeed be produced, an f/30 beam path must be created at the end

No, unfortunately this adapter does not fit to the Zeiss Conquest Gavia 85

Here a measurements of the resolving power close to the H-Alpha Line:

Grating 200 l/mm: R= 640 (measured @ 653nm with 4x4 micron pixel camera)
Grating 900 l/mm: R= 4050 (measured @ 630nm with 4x4 micron pixel camera)
Grating 1200l/mm: R= 6410 (measured @ 653nm with 2.9x2.9 micron pixel camera)

You can install the lens element of the Q-Barlow in the filter thread of the Amici, but the resulting magnification will be much higher - closer to 3x than 2.25x. As this prism is made for terrestrial observation at lower magnifications, we wouldn't recommend this combination, although it would work mechanically. A suitable amici for highest magnifications would be Baader T-2 / 90° Astro Amici-Prism with BBHS ® coating # 2456130. For the influence of the position of the Barlow to its magnification, please see this PDF: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/240/product/1062/calculating_different_magnifications_with_the_vip_barlow.pdf

At telescopes faster that f/10, we always recommend a glasspath corrector - at such a fast telescope, the prisma inside of the binoviewer can introduce colour aberrations, which are removed by using a gpc. You also risk vignetting by the focuser if you add a binoviewer, which needs ca. 11cm of back focus.

I'm not sure what you are talking about - usually, eyepieces need the Zeiss-Diascope Bayonet 1¼" eyepiece adapter # 2454500 to be used with a Diascope, and not a threaded adapter. If you use this adapter, please make sure that it is safely tightene to the eyepiece, otherwise you can't remove the adapter from thr spotting scope.

After removing the AZ pin off the mount this adapter fits well onto the EQ5 (and all the compatibel/similar mounts like Celestron AS-GT a.s.o.)

Very sorry it works only with Zeiss eyepieces and there are no plans to produce adaptors for other brands eyepieces

For a camera lens, you are better of with the regular (visual) ND5 film - the photo-film is made for slow f/ratios (like f/30), which are achieved by a telescope in eyepiece projection, but not with a camera lens. Wit a camera lens and ND3.8, the image will be much too bright.
Please also take a look at our FAQ at https://astrosolar.com/en/faqs/ where we answered this and other questions more in detail.
Concerning other manufacturers: Comperative advertizing is prohibited in Germany. If you do your own research in the web, you will find countless opinions on all the materials mentioned. Please choose from these exellent sources what is the best.

The 1.25" sleeve is included in the price of the Zoom. If you have purchased it from a dealer, please contact them so that they can supply you with this sleeve. Otherwise, please contact a dealer or distributor in your country/region who can order the replacement part from us. Here you can find our storelocator https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/storelocator

Yes, the VariLock fits between the Ultrashort adapter and any T-ring for your DSLR.

Yes, all of our current filters will easily fit into the ZWO filter wheel you have mentioned. All of our mounted filters have a height of 6mm, ZWO states that all filters up to 7.5mm will fit into their filter wheel.

Unfortunately, we cannot answer the question about a connection between your Samyang 135 and your ZWO filter wheel, as we do not distribute either ZWO or Samyang products. Please contact a dealer who sells these brands or ask your question in the Cloudynights forum where you are sure to get a quick and correct answer.

This will not be possible, because the required backfocus between Nikon camera and lens is manufactured in such a way that a direct adaptation fits without additional adapter rings. With other rings or the UFC system, the required backfocus is no longer given.

What would make sense for your desired setup is an adaptation of the UFC filter drawer in front of your Sigma lens, as in this example:
https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/c5/e/baader-ufc-straylight-flange-549.jpg

For this adaptation you need the following adapter rings to get from the 77mm Sigma filter thread to our UFC Filter Silder thread and finally to be able to adapt the filter drawer:

- # 2958077 Baader Hyperion Stepper-Ring M62 onto M77
- # 2958062 Hyperion DT-Ring SP54/M62
- # 2459134 Baader UFC S70 / SP54 (m) Telescope-Adapter
- # 2459110 Baader UFC Base (Filter Chamber)
- # 2459114 Baader UFC 50x50 Filter slider
- # 2459121 Baader UFC Straylight-Flange

Este prisma tiene un revestimiento reflectante de aluminio en las superficies de la hipotenusa y del borde del techo y un revestimiento múltiple en las superficies de vidrio-aire

The actual dimensions are 65mm length on each side with tolerance + 0 / - 0.2mm

Thanks for your understanding that we decided against publishing the technical drawing. As for the requested bolt hole spacing: the holes in width are spaced 76.2mm apart from each other. From the edge, they are 28.7mm and 25.3mm away, respectively. The distance between the holes is precisely 160mm.

The cardboard box in which these filters come is not large enough to store the assembled filter. However, there are plenty of cheap cardboard or (balsa) wood boxes available from various online dealers in almost all sizes. In contrast to plastic boxes, humidity can escape from these boxes when you store them at a dry place.

Yes, it has got no problems even with the larger Mark V Großfeld (Giant)-Binocular # 2456410 and a pair of 36mm Hyperion Aspherics.

All of our mounted filters are already inserted into the filter mount in the correct orientation and can also be screwed onto the camera or a filter wheel on one side only.

The filter should be oriented so that the short external thread side points to the camera/sensor and the long internal thread side points to the telescope/sky.

The Baader V-200 dovetail with a base width of 44mm is the standard Vixen size. A Vixen/Synta dovetail base is generally smaller and has a width of 32-34mm, so be careful not to mix them up.

The ZWO EFW accepts filters with a maximum filter thread height of 7mm. All of our current 1.25" and 2" Baader filters are supplied with a 6mm high filter mount. The Baader colour filters therefore fit easily into almost all filter wheels, including the ZWO EFW filter wheel.

We're not sure if we understand your message correctly - in any case its hard to advise without knowing the outer/inner diameter of your telescopes dew cap. We recommend that you check out www.astrosolar.com/baader-solar-filter/ There you can click on the blue button and enter your telescope data to find a suitable filter.

We don´t sell products from Orion and don´t have any information about the inner tube diameter. Maybe ask your dealer about it. So far mostly
those tubes are made with a 100mm outer diameter tube - there is a chance that this ring could be a soluter but am not sure as said:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/rt-adapter-%C3%B8-97mm-diamond-steeltrackr-(synta--celestron).html

No, the AstroSolar film may not be used on existing glasses and there is no adhesive element.
The eye safety norm EN ISO 12312-2:2015-11 for naked eye solar viewers does not apply to front aperture filters, covering long-range optics. AstroSolar® Safety Film 5.0 is not authorized to be used for naked eye solar observation or production of solar viewers. For direct solar viewing without telescope, binocular or camera optics, inquire for our EN ISO 12312-2:2015-11 certified eclipse shades equipped with AstroSolar® Silver/Gold Film.

This is indeed a problem with many Barlow lenses and prisms - the Barlow lens has to be closer to the telescope than a standard eyepiece, and eyepiece clamps are usually made in such a way that they do not consume too much length.
The 1.25" Clicklock should be stable enough, although it looks indeed strange. Another option would be a 2" extension with M48 thread, which fits into the 2" filter thread of the Zoom eyepiece. E.g. Baader M48 extension tube 40 mm / 2" nosepiece with Safety Kerfs #2958640 would extend the 2" nose piece by 40mm.

Our Baader Sky-Surfer III red dot finder can be mounted on any Celestron tube that has the two screws for mounting a Celestron finder - so your Celestron NexStar 4SE telescope will perfectly fit the Sky-Surfer III.

If it does not fit without an adapter, we ship the Sky-Surfer III with a large number of different adapters to make it fit almost any telescope. Please refer to the detailed instructions in the "Downloads" tab to see what types of adapters we ship with the purchase of the Sky-Surfer III.

The 2" BDS-RT Baader Diamond Steeltrack comes with a male M68x1 thread and a S88 dovetail for the following optional adapters:
- RT-Adapter for Vixen Refractors (M88 x 1) - Diamond Steeltrack® # 2957280
- SC-Adapter 4" Meade Diamond Steeltrack® # 2957295
- RT-Adapter M90x1.5 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957284
- RT-Adapter 4.2" Explore Scientific Diamond Steeltrack® # 2957285
- RT-Adapter M90x1 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957283
- SC-Adapter Intes Micro D66 Diamond Steeltrack® # 2957296
- RT-Adapter Ø 97mm Diamond Steeltrack® (Synta / Celestron) # 2957282
- RT-Adapter M93 x 1 Diamond Steeltrack® # 2957281

If one of these threads fits onto your telescope, you can easily install the SteelTrack RT focuser and use its dual speed focusing mechanism.

If you select the size from the dropdown-menu below the short description (under the "notify me" field), the price for the selected size will appear on the top of the web site.

We are very sorry, we do not have a general answer to this question. Each setup is individual and therefore an individual solution is built by the customer in each case when light leaks really become a problem

Wir kennen die Maße des Objektivs nicht, aber bei einem Außendurchmesser von 70-85mm passt der ASSF65, und bei einem Außendurchmesser von 85-100mm der ASSF80.
In der Regel empfehlen wir die Montage nah am Objektiv, damit möglichst wenig Luft zwischen Filter und Objektiv ist. Bei den vergleichsweise niedrigen Vergrößerungen eines Kameraobjektivs kann der Filter aber auch auf die Gegenlichtblende montiert werden, wenn diese nicht tulpenförmig, sondern rund ist, sodass der Filter rundum lichtdicht aufsitzt.

At 658 nm, the N-II spectral line is very close to the H-alpha spectral line, so with any H-alpha filter above 5 nm you also have full transmission of the N-II spectral line.

Our UHC-L filter is centered on the H-alpha spectral line and has a very wide bandwidth compared to a narrowband filter. You can therefore also expect a maximum transmission of over 95% on the N-II spectral line. The other filters you mentioned behave in the same way. Both our old 7nm and 35nm and our new 20nm and 6.5nm H-alpha filters are wide enough in bandwidth to ensure full N-II transmission.

The current Skywatcher 180 Maksutov model is supplied with a standard SC thread. So if you have the latest model with standard SC thread, our #2956220 SC / HD (2") Clicklock (5" SC, 6" SC/HD, 8" SC/HD and 9¼" SC) will fit.

However, Skywatcher offers many different models with different threads. Please check with the manufacturer to determine the thread of your telescope and select the correct Clicklock accordingly. For Skywatcher telescopes we also offer clicklocks with M54a x 0.75-2, M54a x 1, M56i x 1, S57 and M74i x 1 threads.

So far, we do not have a 2" helical focuser. The problem is that it should be sturdy enough for heavier accessories, too, so it would have to be a rather expensive construction - especially if it shouldn't be too long. At the moment, we don't have plans to design one, as we are afraid that it would be too expensive.

Yes this should work when you have a Steeltrack SC focuser to connect wiht your Intes Micro

The exact composition of OW Fluid is proprietary. However, the dominant component is certainly isopropyl alcohol in combination with various surfactants to prevent streaking when the alcohol dries. For this reason, we do not recommend using OW-fluid on polycarbonate or other acrylic surfaces.

We understand that you would like to have a smaller filter changer in your T-2 image train. However, we always try to make our products compatible with a wide range of telescopes, cameras, filters and accessories. Therefore we developed the modular UFC system, which can be adapted to almost everything. On the other hand this also means, that we didn't invest in development of such a 1.25"-only filter changer that you desire, because the usecase for such a product is much lower. So unfortunately we can't help you here, thanks for your understanding.
If you don't find what you're looking for elsewhere, we're sure the UFC will do a great job as well, even though its bulkier/pricier than your expectations.

This Amici has got a 2" SC-thread, as it was made for Schmidt-Cassegrains - so, you need at least a 2" nosepiece like Baader 2" Safety Kerf nosepiece with 2" filter thread # 2408156. You may need an additional spacer between the nosepiece and the Amici to set the friction - it was designed to fit direclt onto the back of a Schmidt-Cassegrain, but this should be tested.

If 1.25" are okay for you, there is also Baader1¼" Amici-erecting-prism 45° with 24mm free aperture # 2956150 which should work out of the box.

You need the optical path length, that's the mechanical length of the star diagonal including the effects of the optical elements. The glass path is mainly of interest if you want to know about dispersion.

So, the optical length of our items is the requirred backfocus at a refractor telescope (it's a little bit harder to define at a Schmidt-Cassegrain due to the moving main mirror and thus the changing focal length).

The nosepiece itself doesn't add to the length, as it disappears completely in the eyepiece clamp. Also, it is completely inserted into the housing of the star diagonal and flush with it, so the optical length doesn't change when you remove it.

There is not really a standard distance, but we did some testing with several Barlow lenses which you can find in the following blog post:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/barlow-lenses-their-magnification-factors-and-working-distances/
We mostly tested it with the 55mm which are the standard distance for a (D)SLR with a T-adapter, where the magnification is higher.
The Hyperion Barlow was designed to work especially with the Hyperion Zoom in mind. With a camera or other eyepieces, the magnification changes with the distance. We found the following magnifications for several distances:
- 25 mm distance: 2,3x
- 36 mm distance: 2,5x
- 55 mm distance: 2,7x

All our lenses are multi-coated / hard-coated. This means that you can safely clean them with a mixture of isopropyl and distilled water without damaging the coating. However, in order to avoid misinformation and misunderstandings, we still recommend that all our customers clean their lenses exclusively with our Optical Wonder™ Cleaning Fluid.

This is correct. The UFC S70 adapter for the 11" RASA sits flush on the front lens group, making it no longer possible to install the Celestron light pollution filter.

The UFC S70 adapter is intended for later installation of the UFC filter drawer. In the UFC design, the filters are installed in the filter drawer (for quick exchange), eliminating the need to screw the filters into the front lens group. When using the UFC system, all additional glass elements such as the Celestron light pollution filter or optical window must be removed prior to installation.

Sorry – we do not offer alternative parts to fit this RDM.

As shown here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-multipurpose-finder-bracket-mqr-iii-7x50-(max-62mm).html
- the complete finder holder though would allow to mount the bottom dovetail-partdirectly onto the base plate that holds the guide-scope rings.

Unfortunately, this will not work.
The minimum distance between the holes is 25mm, the largest (from outer end to outer end) is 42mm.
The Sky-Surfer III – tube adapter set made of ABS # 2957303 has got a bottom which is a little bit more curved, but otherwise, it would fit. the distance from inner edge to inner edge is 8mm, from outer edge to outer edge its 33mm.

We have created a Digiscoping Brochure which lists all required adapters for all cases of digiscoping, you should find answers to all your questions there: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/444/product/0/digiscoping_camera_adaptations_for_afocal_photography_and_eyepiece_projection.pdf

Yes, the part used in this diagonal is our M36.4 / T-2 Adapter: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-adapter-m36.4--t-2-(t-2-part-03).html

The net weight of the IMP85 without any adapters or accessories is 2.2kg. You will need at least one telescope adapter though depending on your instrument which will add a bit to the total weight.

Have you seen this article https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/using-the-flipmirror-the-correct-working-distances/#BFM-OAG where we describe such a setup?

The ASI has got a back focus of 17,5mm if you attach it directly to the T-2-thread of the FlipMirror.
The FlipMirror adds another 59mm if you use the M48 or T-2-threads.
If you attach the FlipMirror to your telescope with Baader Universal Photo-T Adapter C90 for NX4 / ETX with 1¼" filter holder # 2958500, this adds another 24mm; the optimum back focus distance of the C6 is 5 inch (12.7 cm).

If you use e.g. Baader Focusing Eyepiece Holder 1¼" / T-2 (T-2 part #08A) # 2458125, this places an eyepiece ca. 30 mm above the FlipMirror, so you should place the camera sensor also ca. 30mm away from the FlipMirror - Baader T-2 / 15 mm Extension Tube #1508154 gives you a distance of 32.5mm, this should work with the ASI and most eyepieces. Unfortunately, there is no standard position for the location of the field stop of an eyepiece, but it is usually close to the connection of the nose piece to the wider part of the eyepiece. You may have to pull the eyepiece a little bit outwards.

If you use the Off Axis Guider, you need a T-2-extension to place the ASI at least 24 mm away from the FlipMirror's housing, so if you use the 15mm T-2-extension at the ASI, it should work. But this depends on the back focus of your guiding camera. It is a bit of try-and-error, in the best case, you set ASI plus eyepiece to the same focus, then you focus the guiding camera by mving it up and down and clamping it when you have reached focus.

These filters are - like all our filters - hard dielectric coated. They are easy to clean and hard to destroy. You can use all optic cleaners from the photo store or our Optical Wonder

It is correct, that the Flipmirror knob is mechanically prepared to work together with our steeldrive. We also have customers who build something themselves, see e.g. this Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFxQxFhDb8s
However, unfortunately, we did not yet start this project to integrate this functionality into our SteelGo Software. At this moment we can’t tell you when/if this will get implemented. Sorry that we don’t have better news at the moment.

Because your telescope is an FL APO we recommend the Moon and Skyglow filter that gives a natural view with contrast enhancement. The Contrast booster would be the right choice for "non APO" telescopes because it cuts the colour fringes off, this also enhances contrast but the image turns more into yellow.

Unfortunately this is not possible, the Off-Axis-Guider has no cap nut to hold the Alan Gee in place. One solution could be using this:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/qhy-miniguiderscope-mount.html
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-standard-base---for-mqr-iiiandiv-for-witty-one-and-for-v-bracket.html
Anyway, it is also rather critical to find a guiding star in the outer area behind a reducer because of the much higher vignetting. Also most software
like PHD2 works much better with smaller focal lengthes like mini guider scope.

Yeas, that is the correct combination for 1.25" filters and a T-2-connection on both sides; you can install on either side of the T-2 star diagonal.
Instead of the Baader UFC Seal, 3D-printed, # 2459196, you can also use another filter drawer - then you have a spare one when you want to try another filter.

Unfortunately, we cannot give you an assessment of this without seeing the situation for ourselves or knowing your equipment and experimenting with it ourselves. When observing the sun, safety must always come first! Avoid anything that could endanger the eyes of people around you or your own eyes!

So, you basically want to use an eyepiece just some mm or cm higher above the clamp than usual?

Then you might try to simply extend the 1,25" nosepiece with Baader 1¼" - 31.8mm nosepiece extension with 1¼" filter thread on both sides (T-2 part #05) # 1905130. This is an 18.5 mm long extension for the nose piece. This way, you can insert the eyepiece into the clamp as usual, but the distance is longer.

If you want a defined distance between eyepiece and clamp, there is also the Stop Ring 1¼" (T-2 part #30) # 1905131

These items are mostly used to bring a small guiding camera on an off axis guider into the perfect distance, but it also works with eyepieces. And you can focus surprisingly good by just sliding an eyepiece up and down.

The ultrashort clamp #2458121 is almost the shortest possible clamp if you still want some material left to keep the eyepiece from tilting, so extending the nosepiece is probably the best solution.

The William Optics RedCat has a thread for mounted 2" filters (M48x0.75 thread, female) when used as a camera lens, so you can of course use any of our 2" mounted filters to screw directly into the light path.

Unfortunately we have no adaptor for your telescope. Please have a look at www.preciseparts.com Here you can find the manual of the focuser with more technical detail https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/175/product/2858/instruction_manual_for_all_baader_diamond_steeltrack_bds.pdf

The issue you're experiencing with the Baader OMS-Nano – Remote Switch for 10Micron Mounts is due to it being on a different subnet than your router. To resolve this, you need to set your computer's IP address to the .0.xxx network and directly connect the OMS Nano to your computer. After this connection, adjust the IP address of the OMS Nano so it fits into your router's IP network. These steps are outlined in the manual on pages 4-7.

The Morpheus 6,5 works very well with your telescope and gives a 153x magnification. This is good for Moon and Planets. We do not recommend a barlow lens, the magnification will be too high for most nights, even on Planets. If you want a higher magnification, you should maybe think about Morpheus 4,5mm instead which provides an ideal magnification for Planets, 222x, with your telescope

To answer this question, we need to know the backfocus of your telescopes.

In general, you need
- the binoviewer
- a T-2 prism diagonal, either Baader Prism Diagonal T-2/90° 32mm # 2456005 or the larger Baader T-2 Stardiagonal (Zeiss) Prism with BBHS ® coating (T-2 part #01B) # 2456095 - these are the shortest star diagonals
- a nosepiece, either 1¼" / T-2 # 2458105 or 2" to T-2 / M48 # 2408150
- a glasspath corrector to achieve focus, avoid vignetting and remove colour aberrations

This will result in a required backfocus of ca. 150mm, the GPC shortens it by ca. 20-65mm depending on its factor - there is a table on page 20/21 of the manual at https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1614/product/4317/manual_baader_maxbrightr_ii_binoviewer.pdf
There we also describe how you can determine the back focus of your telescope if the manufacturer doesn't provide it.

On a telescope with a moving main mirror like a Schmidt-Cassegrain, you usually don't need a GPC to avoid colour aberrations, but at least the 1.25x is recommended to avoid vignetting. most refractor telescopes reach focus either with the 1.7x GPC or the 2.6x. But it is best if you measure the back focus of your own telescopes yourself.

With your f/4 Newtonian including the f/3 reducer, you are exactly at the limit where our normal narrow-band filters no longer work with full transmission. These are only designed for a focal length of slower than f/3.4. For full transmission you will therefore need the 6.5nm f/2 highspeed version.

You should therefore decide in advance whether you want to use your Newtonian at f/3.0 or f/4.0 and buy the right filter set accordingly. Otherwise you will need 2 full filter sets to be able to utilize the full transmission.

It is slightly less than 32mm, so that it is compatible with Vixen-style finder brackets.

Comparing to the astrophotographic application the visual use of the EdgeHD OTA´s is very tolerant. You won´t notice any negative effect or at least
it is minimal and therefore acceptable.

Of course, our narrowband filters can also be used with a color camera, but there are some trade-offs.

You will definitely sacrifice some resolution for the flexibility of an One shot color camera (which is ideal for EAA and planetary imaging - DSO, not so much). For narrowband, the sensitivity reduction of an OSC camera compared to a monochrome is a direct result of the Bayer matrix. Bayer matrices are usually RGGB, so only 1/4 of the sensor picks up Ha radiation through the red filter. With OIII, you're a little better off - it will be about 1/2 as sensitive as a monochrome camera with the same sensor. The real problem comes with SII. It's in the far red, and the red filter in a Bayer matrix will attenuate some of that radiation. Also, SII is generally quite weak in DSO targets to begin with. So using an OSC camera with an SII filter can require some pretty massive integration times to get enough SNR to make a nice image.

So it's not that you can't do it - you can. But you're essentially giving up a lot of imaging time by choosing an OSC over a monochrome camera for DSO narrowband imaging. If this is going to be an occasional pursuit and you don't have heavy light pollution, then the OSC makes sense. If you're in heavy light poulltion and you're going to be doing mostly narrowband imaging, then it makes a lot more sense to get a mono camera.

Unfortunately, we cannot answer this question without knowing what telescope you are using.

For example, with a 2032mm C8, 2x Barlow and our Hyperion at 8mm magnification, you can see great structures on Saturn and Jupiter.

The following page is a great starting point to determine the actual magnification and approximate image from your combination of telescope, Barlow lens and eyepiece: http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/

If you have the filter wheel in the QHY CFW3-S Standard version, you can screw either our 1.25" mounted filters and the 31mm version into the filter wheel. The threads are standardized and fit into all filter wheels from QHY or other manufacturers.

If you have the QHY filter wheel in the QHY CFW3-S Ultrashort version, our 1.25" filter mounts with a height of 6 mm are unfortunately too thick. Due to the short mechanical length, it can only accommodate 5 mm thick filters. The unmounted 31 mm are not affected by this filter wheel version.

You need a T-2 prism diagonal (## 2456095 or # 2456005), a T-2 nose piece (1.25" # 2458105 or 2" # 2408150) and a glasspath corrector.
For the Schmidt-Cassegrain, we'd recommend the 1,25x GPC (you can reach focus without it, but it improves image quality and illumination); for the refractor, it depends on the available back focus. The T-2 prism diagonal is recommended as it makes the shortest adaptation possible - in theory, any other star diagonal can work, but it may be too long so that you probably will not reach focus or need a stronger glasspath corrector.

We have a description of the different adaptations and how to measure the back focus in the manual at https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1614/product/4317/manual_baader_maxbrightr_ii_binoviewer.pdf

We do not ship to the USA, but we kindly ask you to contact our local distributor Alpine Astro. You can find his adress and other dealers worldwide in our store locator at https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/storelocator

The UFC Tilter has the same connections like all ouf our UFC extensions. So it can be placed between two extensions or between the UFC Base and an extensions or replace an extension and be placed between the UFC base and a telescope adapter.

Yes, the eyepiece/accessories do indeed get clamped with a brass compression ring.

Der USB-Traffic ist in der Voreinstellung auf 0 gesetzt. Dies ist für fast alle Anwendungen in der Deep Sky Fotografie ausreichend und empfehlenswert. Eine Erhöhung des Standardwertes von 0 auf z.B. 20 (Einstellmöglichkeiten zwischen 0-60) ist nur dann ratsam, wenn man mit der Kamera Videos für die Planetenfotografie aufnehmen möchte.

Einen langen Thread, in dem auch das Thema USB Traffic behandelt und diskutiert wird, finden Sie hier: https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/389405-qhy268m-qhy268c-users-thread-please-share-your-knowledge-and-tips/

Die von Ihnen gewählte Einstellung von Gain 200 ist auf jeden Fall viel zu hoch. Der Fullwell-Wert und die e/ADU gehen hier gegen Null. Auch die Dynamik leidet bei einer so hohen Gain-Einstellung enorm (nur noch ca. 7Bit). Diese Einstellung hat also nur Nachteile.

Werfen Sie am besten noch einmal einen Blick auf die Übersichten der verschiedenen Charakteristiken bei den jeweiligen Gain Werten. Diese finden Sie auf der Produktseite unter "Die vom Nutzer wählbaren Auslesemodi".

Für helle Objekte wie Sternhaufen oder helle Galaxien wird ein Gain-Wert von 0 / Offset 25 empfohlen. Gerade bei hellen Sternhaufen möchte man einen möglichst hohen Full Well Wert erreichen, damit der Sensor nicht direkt gesättigt wird und die Sterne somit ausbrennen. Hier ist auch der Extended Full Well 2CMS Modus sehr interessant.

Bei dunkleren Objekten, Langzeitbelichtungen mit Schmalbandfiltern oder dunklem Himmel kann der Gain Wert auf 56 erhöht werden, um vom geringeren Ausleserauschen zu profitieren. Insbesondere für die Deep Sky Fotografie ist der Auslesemodus 1 (High Gain Mode) bzw. High Gain 2CMS sehr vorteilhaft, da er ein geringes Ausleserauschen und eine hohe Dynamik bietet.

Alle Gain Einstellungen über 56 sind für die meisten Anwendungen nicht mehr sinnvoll, ab Gain 100 sind fast alle Werte nahe Null.

Yes, this adapter is made for the large 6x7cm field flatteners from TEC (TEC FRC 0.9x Focal Reducer for TEC Refractors) and Astro-Physics.

These flatteners have a rear collar that clamps various adapters to the back of the flattener. Unfortunately, this makes it difficult to adapt to your camera. This adapter solves this problem by converting the back of the flattener to a standard M68 thread. It is then a simple case of adding standard adapters to the flattener to achieve the correct back focus and adaptation for your camera.

We are very sorry that we cannot answer your question as we do not know your telescope from our own experience. There are so many different telescopes on the market, and new designs are constantly being added, unfortunately we cannot test all our accessories with all telescopes and have to limit ourselves to the most popular models. Gernell Barlow was developed for short focal length eyepieces and can also be used for planetary photography, but less for deep sky photography. We have the FFC https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/fluorite-flatfield-converter-(ffc)--3x-8x.html in our range for this purpose, but it is considerably more expensive together with the necessary accessories.

No, this part is a lot smaller. It is a T-2 part so the dovetail ring diameter is ~42mm – compared to 57mm of the S57 ClickLock. If you want to exchange the Maxbright for a mono eyepiece, we recommend to purchase a second change ring: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-(tcr)-hardened-steel-t-2-changering-(t-2-part-07).html
and purchase our M42 Clicklock clamp: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/eyepiece-clamps-nosepieces/baader-2%22-clicklock-eyepiece-clamps.html#574=955

There is no need for am upgrade unless your chip size would be larger than full frame (36 x 24 mm).

We're sorry to hear about the damage. But fortunately the film can indeed be replaced by yourself. We explain the necessary steps for this on page 21 of our instruction manual: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1578/product/2986/instruction_manual_baader_solar_filter_v_1_7.pdf

The mentioned thread size is M71 x 0.75

As written on the product page the FFC is able to create magnifications between 3x and 8x and has a plane field that is larger than full format. The Zeiss Barlow lens is not able to cannot meet your requirements. We cannot say anything about PowerMate because we do not sell the product.

Yes, the filter can be used on monochrome and colour cameras. Please note that all pixels of the sensor of a monochrome camera are red sensitive but only 1/4 of the pixels of a colour sensor are red sensitive. Means, the resolution of an Halpha photo with a color camera has a significantly lower resolution

It weighs 164 g.

The glass type of this prism is BaK 7. We also have BaK 4 prisms in stock, please check all our prism specifications in this PDF: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1617/product/0/baader_star_diagonals_t_2_and_2.pdf

Please take a look at the drawing at https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/12/9/baader-v-dove-tail-clamp-diam-70mm-with-one-clamp-screw-2aa.jpg to check if it fits onto your mount.
The two countersunk holes with 9mm diameter work fine with M8 screws, they are 35 mm apart.
The central hole and the two at the side are for 1/4" screws (photo thread).

Comme décrit dans les caractéristiques techniques, le bloc d'alimentation fournit 5A à la sortie

In general, our ClickLock 2" clamps should fit all Schmidt Cassegrain telescopes with a 2" threaded connection. Unfortunately, the threads of older telescopes from this manufacturer have very large tolerances and are therefore not 100% true to size, so that it cannot be guaranteed in every case that our threads, which are cut exactly to size, will fit.

Yes, you can.

The higher magnification will give you a larger image, but not necessarily more details. The lack of detail may also be caused by the air turbulences and fog between you and the horizon. But it is worth trying.

However, as far as we remember, the Ultima ED series has got screw-on eyepieces like the Utima series spotting scopes and does not accept 1.25" eyepieces. Then, the Hyperion 5mm (or any other standard astronomical eyepiece) will not work. However, you may try Baader 2" NX4 (C90) / ETX Expanding Ring # 2958500A plus plus one of our Classic Ortho 6mm, 1¼" Eyepiece (HT-MC) # 2954106 as described for the regular Ultima spotting scope in this PDF: (sorry, only in German): https://www.celestron.de/ce_de/downloads/dl/file/id/938/product/3323/ultima_und_classic_okulare.pdf

This will not give you such a high magnification, but you should be able to reach focus. Unfortunately, we can not test it with the Ultima 100ED,a s Celestron doesn't produce these spotting scopes any longer.

The DADOS works very well with your telescope. The vignetting has no effect on the spectra. Please see the manual and the tutorial for more detail: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/189/product/1481/dados_user_manual_60_pages.pdf
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/193/product/1481/dados_slit_spectrograph_tutorial_110_pages.pdf

For visual observation, the filter direction is not so crucial. For photographic use, the direction of the filter is more important. All our filters from the CMOS-optimized series have a black rim to avoid internal reflections, it is important that the side with the 1mm black rim is facing the telescope.

A detailed instruction can be found here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/media/wysiwyg/filter-frontside-indicator.gif

Theoretically the filter can be used in combination with a Herschel wedge, But it needs to be mounted behind the wedge, means in the eyepiece, and not in front of the wedge were the filter receives the full solar heat. This filter is designed for nighttime use and has a thin filter glas. It cannot withstand the heat of the sun close to the focus and will burst if it gets mounted there. Anyway the filter will it not give any advantage compared with an neutral density filter. You will not see Halpha structures like prominences a.s.o The image will only be red instead of white.

Since we don't sell Skywatcher products, we can't tell you for sure. SkyWatcher uses a variety of threads, so we would have to ask you to check the thread on your specific telescope as we don't have it here. Please unscrew your clamp and check it with a slide rule or ruler to be sure. Most likely your clamp is made with a M54x1 thread so our #2956254 will fit.

The typical SkyWatcher threads are:
#2956251 M54a x 0.75-2" (TS-Optics / SkyWatcher)
#2956254 M54a x 1-ClickLock (Skywatcher / Orion)
#2956256 M56i x 1-ClickLock (Skywatcher / Celestron)
#2956257 S57-ClickLock (Skywatcher / Celestron)
#2956274 M74i x 1-ClickLock (Skywatcher Esprit, TS-Optics, Omegon)

A description of how to measure a thread can be found here:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/clicklock-clamp-for-your-telescope/

It will probably not fit - at least, it doesn't fit on the similar-sized 5" Schmidt-Cassegrain
The focuser has got diameter of 95 mm - plus the diameter of the focusing knobs, see https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/29/product/2856/bds_sc_dimensions_technical_drawing.pdf . So, you'll probably be unable to screw it onto your telescope at all without removing its orginal focus knob, even if you should have a SC-thread on your telescope. If the Mak is build similar to a Schmidt-Cassegrain, the focusing knob also holds the mirror in place, so it might freely move around in the telescope and even fall onto the front lens when the knob is removed.

For a finer focus, we'd recommend a focusing eyepiece clamp like Baader Focusing Eyepiece Holder 1¼" / T-2 (T-2 part #08A) # 2458125 instead.

It is 97 mm when you use the TZ4S as standalone-unit e.g for planetary photography.
In combination with an H-alpha-filter, the distance increases to the approximately 120mm +/-10mm which are mentioned on page 28, due to all the glass in the H-alpha-filter - although this value may vary. If you want the best value, take this distance simply as a rule of thumb and use the measurement method described on page 28.
Fortunately, a telecentric system is very easy to handle so you don't need to be too exact. A larger distance is no problem, we did not notice a decrease in image quality even when using a binoviewer with a length of 120mm (and oving the focuser only ca. 10mm inwards). Only a much shorter should be avoided, because then you would use the eyepiece as a loupe to see the internal structures of the H-alpha-filter, too.

Since we don't sell Explore Scientific products and can't find a technical drawing for your desired tripod, we can't tell you for sure if the Tripod Adapter Flange will fit.

The dimensions of this flange are the same as the CPC series. Celestron.com has published the information at this link: https://celestron-site-support-files.s3.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/support_files/CPC%20Series%20additional%20specifications.pdf

The interesting part for adapting the flange to your tripod is the following information:
The CPC base has a flat plate with a diameter of 10.171". At 120° from each other, there are three sets of two holes in the base. The inner holes in each pair are (on a circle) 5.125" in diameter. The outer holes in each pair are (on a circle) 6.450" in diameter. These 6 holes are 3/8 x 16 threaded.
The center hole is a standard metric M10 thread, the three (3x120°) outer holes are 5/16" and the pitch is 18.

We do not recommend any automated cutting processes unless it is absolutely ensured that the film will not be puller across an underlying surface or can be subjected to mechanical stress os stratching in any way.
Both sides of the film are metal coated and this coating cannot be cushined by any material that will stay in contact with the film – otherwise the optical properties may change and supenumerous images of the sun may be the cause.

The weight of the finderscope with MQR-iV holder and prism is appx 1kg

It is easy - in this drawing https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/f2/f/fluorite-flatfield-converter-ffc-3x-8x-295.jpg , L' shows you how long the distance between the back of the FFC and the camera sensor must be to achieve a specific magnification. E.g., for 3x, the distance must be set to 96,2mm. If your camera has got a backfocus of ca. 17mm, so you need a 96,2mm-17mm=80mm extension, which can be done with 2x Baader T-2 / 40 mm Extension Tube #1508153.
For higher magnifications, you need more extension tubes to increase the distance.
The FFC is simply inserted into the telescope like a 2" eyepiece; on the drawing, the telescope would be on the top, and the male T-2-thread for attaching extension tubes and camera is on the bottom.
The value of L shows you, how much deeper the FFC must be inserted into the focuser, compared to the focus point of the telescope.
In https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/97/c/fluorite-flatfield-converter-ffc-3x-8x-6a4.jpg you can see more detailed, which distances results in which magnification.

The Special thread 54 has another pitch than the common metric M54 threads. The pitch is 0.7 mm - an approximation of a US standard of old "step-down rings" - which were quite common.

So the UFC S70 / SP54 (m) adapter would not fit your desired thread size and pitch of M54x0.75 mm. Unfortunately, we do not currently have a UFC S70 to M54 with male thread size in our product range. The Baader UFC M54x0.75 (m) Camera Adapter would fit your desired M54 thread size, but only in combination with our UFC Filter Base.

To replace the original Visual Back for a Baader Clicklock you need the Baader 2" ClickLock SC/HD (2") clamp (C5" - C9¼") with the part number: #2956220

Here you can insert the Baader 2" to 1¼" ClickLock Reducer like this:
https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/b3/f/baader-2-to-1-1-4-clicklock-reducer-t-2-part-15b-b42.jpg

The M68 / S68 Quick Change system can safely carry up to 5kg of equipment.

This dovetail should fit well for your purpose. Just spend a look for the including screws. They are slightly different for both ends, please check
bevor mounting that you take the right screws to match with the holes.

I don't know what the abbreviation AEF means, but the Calcium filter is designed for photographic use in combination with either the included Astrosolar ND3.8 in front if the telescope or a Herschel wedge - but we have only tested much slower f/ratios than f/4.4. If you want to use the telescope at f/4.4, we would recommend to purchase a sheet of AstroSolar® ECO-size Safety Film 5.0, 140x155 mm #2459286, too, and try this filter first instead of the ND3.8. If the image is too dark, then you can still use the ND3.8. We'd also highly recommend a good Barlow lens, as the image at f/4.4 will both be bright and very small.

As CaK is in the ultraviolet part of the spectrum, the filter is not intended for visual use. Also, the ND3.8 is not safe for visual use. You'ld basically be looking into a UV light source, at a wave length which is already harmful for the eye.

It should be safe to use only the ND3.8-filter plus your camera, but at such a fast system, you're probably better of with an ND5-filter. ND3.8 is designed for the slow f/ratios which are achieved with barlow lenses or eyepiece projection - something like f/15-f/30. With most camera lenses, the image is still to bright when the ND3.8 is used. As even a 4x telecentric system will give you only f/17, the image may still be too bright for the shortest possible exposure times. So, if you want to use the telescope at f/4.4, we would recommend the AstroSolar® ECO-size Safety Film 5.0 instead.

The total length is ca. 60mm, the nosepiece ca. 23.3mm and the clamp 36.4 mm. So, the difference in length is caused by variations in the measurement.
A 2" eyepiece can be inserted ca. 30.5 mm.

Yes, both nosepiece and eyepiece clamp work fine with this star diagonal.
The spacer rings are not necessary. They fulfill two purposes:
1) They increase the optical length and are used for finetuning the distances especially for photography
2) They fit between two T-2-parts which are screwed together and make it easier to unscrew them. If you screw two metal parts together and e.g. the temperature changes, it can be hard to seperate them again. With these plastic spacers, it is easier to unscrew them again. But this is only interesting if you change the parts quite often and not if you want them to stay together.

Yes, our Neutral Density Filters are AR coated on both sides.

The ClickLock eyepiece clamps are held in place by M2.5 screws. For adjusting them, see this PDF:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1559/product/3030/adjusting_the_clicklockr_lever.pdf

You can find the available threads of our star diagonals in this PDF:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1617/product/2872/baader_star_diagonals_t_2_and_2.pdf
The 2" Amici features an S58 dovetail on both ends, each with M55- and 2"-SC-threaded insert ring

Taking photos through a window always degrades the image massively. The best advise is, to go outside and use a telephoto lens. The contrast enhander and polarizers will not bring any advantage with lens and camera, only when using a telescope and higher magnification.

Your calculations are completely correct so far. It is recommended to mount the filter drawer as close as possible to the sensor to avoid additional vignetting. Your setup with 2" filters would look exactly like this:

Hyperstar 9.25 with 59.7 mm Backfocus
- Baader UFC S70 / C11/C9.25 Hyperstar Adapter (#2459132) -> 4.1 mm
- Baader UFC S70 Extension (#2459141) -> 5 mm
- Baader UFC S70 VariLock 15-20mm extension (#2459145) -> set to 18.76 mm
- Baader UFC Base (#2459110) -> 13 mm
- Baader UFC 2" (M48) Filter Slider (#2459112) -> 0 mm
- 2" Baader Filter with 2mm thickness -> adds 0.66 mm to overall Backfocus
- Baader UFC T-2 (m) Camera-Adapter (#2459115) -> 2 mm
- ZWO 2600MM with M42x0.75 female thread -> 17.5 mm

You only need one Baader Single Polarizing Filter 2" #2408342.
The Herschel prism already polarizes the light, so that a single polarizing filter is enough.

The QHY174 Mono GPS fits the QHY CFW3-M Standard Filterwheel right out of the box and is connected via the 4-pin QHY CFW socket.
Since the sensor of the QHY174 is very small compared to other deep sky cameras, the smaller QHY CFW3-S Standard Filterwheel, which supports a carousel with seven 1.25" mounted filters or 31mm unmounted filters, would also be perfect for your setup.

2. The QHY CFW3-M Standard and QHY CFW3-S Standard are supplied with a 2" nosepiece for direct attachment to your focuser. The QHY CFW3-M has an M54 x 0.75 to 2" adapter and the QHY CFW3-S has an M42 x 0.75 to 2" adapter.

3. The recommended off-axis guider depends on the filter wheel you ultimately choose. For the QHY CFW3-M Standard, the larger OAG-M Off-Axis Guider is also required for direct connection. The QHY CFW3-S requires the smaller OAG-S Off-Axis Guider.

The S-setup on both the filter wheel and the off-axis guider is more than enough for your small sensor, if you are looking for a larger sensor down the road, the M-setup is definitely future proof.

Yes, the lever for the M64 ClickLock can be adjusted, according to the right page of this short instruction:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1559/product/3030/adjusting_the_clicklockr_lever.pdf

This 2" nosepiece has an 2" SC thread and would first require an adapter to T-2. So in our opinion it would make more sense to purchase a 2" barrel that has a T-2 thread already built in, such as the mentioned part #2408150. There is however also a predecessor of this part with Safety Kerfs. Please check out https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-nosepiece-2%22-t-2-m48-saftey-kerfs.html

GPCs are solely designed to compensate for the spherical error that is induced into the beam when a large chunk of glass (in this case all the combined prisms built into a binoviewer) would otherwise create a huge color error. So unfortunately, no, a GPC can never replace a barlow lens.

Since we sell neither Bresser telescopes nor Hexafoc focusers, unfortunately we can't answer this question with confidence. Please inquire the exact thread dimensions from Bresser to see if it will fit.

No, you simply have to loosen the six M2.5 headless setscrews with the included 1.3mm Allen wrench key and then simply slide it out (and replace if needed with our BDS Direct Thread adapters). They are marked with (5) on page six of the instruction manual: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/175/product/2856/instruction_manual_for_all_baader_diamond_steeltrack_bds.pdf

Since we don't sell neither Explore Scientific telescopes, unfortunately we can't answer this question with confidence. Please inquire the exact thread dimensions from Bresser to see if it will fit. Please note that we have various RT-Adapters available, if the focuser should not fit natively: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=RT-adapter

We are sorry to hear about these problems! We recommend to return the Laser Colli to your dealer for exchange to a working unit. We do not recommend trying to align the laser yourself without an optical bench.

In fact, we do not recommend removing the mirror from the housing because, as you said, it can cause alignment problems when you reassemble it. If at all possible, you should try to clean it inside the housing. Please refer to our general cleaning instructions, which apply to all types of optics, even if not specifically mentioned: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/110/product/0/cleaning_and_maintenance_of_optics_a_short_instruction_guide.pdf

As you describe, this is exactly the procedure we recommend. Coarse impurities are removed with a blower, then the mirror can be gently cleaned with our Optical Wonder Liquid and the enclosed microfiber cloth. Alternatively, you can use original Kleenex tissues in combination with our Optical Wonder Liquid. However, make sure that you are using the original Kleenex cloths without any additives.

You may try to bring the Barlow lens deeper in the mirror or in front of the mirror. Because its modular with conventinal threads there could be an option to adapt it this way, depüending on the mirror. Otherwise please use an 1,25" mirror or prism. Here are more informations about our barlow lenses https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/barlow-lenses-their-magnification-factors-and-working-distances/

We cannot tell you this in detail, but here you find more informations and contact of the very experienced UV photographer Dr. Klaus Schmitt http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/

Yes, this is correct. All BDS Steeltracks feature an S58 dovetail and an M55 female thread after removal of the 2" clamp. We have no solution to get from M55 to M54 unfortunately though. The only current solution we would have for that is a little cumbersome. We can lay it out for you if you're interested

Unfortunately we have no stock anymore, we will remove the product from our website soon. We only keep it on the website for a while to inform about that it does not get produced anymore.

We have added the requested data (and more) to the product description. Here it is again:
Depth: 9.8mm
Diameter: 152mm (+0.1/0)
Dimensions of the 3x external clamping screws: 3 x 120°
Depth of M3 thread center measured from the front: 5mm

The Alan Gee has got an ideal image circle of 15mm and can be used with up to 18mm, so it fits to the 16mm diagonal of your camera at least at 0.59x. Of course, taking flats is recommended. It can be used at higher compression rates, but then the image circle will shrink, too.

We do have some example images in the manual (under the tab "Downloads") which should give you an impression.

The Mewlon should have a back focus of 210 mm, as far as I can see.

The 2" BDS-SC Baader Diamond Steeltrack® Focuser # 2957220 has got a length of 93-123mm (with the included 2" clamp)
The 2" BDS-SC Baader Diamond Steeltrack® Focuser # 2957220 has got a length of 3mm and fits onto the T-2-star diagonal. You can rotate it in the SteelTrack easily by opening the eyepiece clamp of the SteelTrack.
The star diagonal has got a length of 38,5mm
A 2" eyepiece clamp like Baader 2" ClickLock T-2 (M42i x 0.75) clamp #2956242 adds another 36 mm

This makes a total length of 170,5-200,5mm, so that should be no problem even if you might need another adapter for the thread on the back of the Mewlon (I'm not sure which threads are used on the Mewlon and if another adapter to the SC-thread is needed for the SteelTrack). If you need to place the eyepiece farter away, you can use T-2-extensions at the star diagonal, if necessary. Two T-2 / 15 mm Extension Tubes #1508154 would bring you into the optimum distance to place the eyepiece in a distance of 200-230mm, well around the 210mm of perfect back focus.

No - we do have the Ultrashort 1¼" / T-2 Clamp # 2458121, but only for T-2.
But you could use the 4-in-1-clamp with the Baader Pushfix Reducer 2" to 1¼" (T-2 part #15a) # 2408151, which has got only a height of 1mm in its shortest configuration.

Unfortunately it is not possible to remove this part.

The size of the telescope's aperture directly affects its resolving power, meaning a larger aperture allows you to see smaller details on the Sun. However, this is theoretical and in practice, seeing conditions play a significant role in image sharpness and resolution. Daytime conditions tend to be more turbulent due to the Sun's heat, which can affect the quality of what you're able to see.

Given that you're using a Dobsonian telescope for visual observation, you won't have the option to mitigate the effects of poor seeing conditions as you would with photographic techniques like Lucky Imaging. In your specific case, the difference between a 180mm and 200mm solar filter would likely be minimal due to the factors mentioned. Therefore, using the ASTF 180 should still provide a similar quality image.

Alternatively you can of course also wait for the ASTF 200, which should become available again in 1-2 months.

We do not know, as we do not know the specifications of the thread which TeleVue uses for that part. M68 is the old Zeiss-standard, so if TeleVue uses the same thread, they would probably call it M68, too.

Yes, it will fit without problems

The 2"/S58 ring is a special adapter only for our 2" SC Clicklock that is unfortunately not sold separately. Please note also that this part does indeed feature a 2" female thread and an S58 dovetail, but beyond the dovetail is a larger extend which is required in the Clicklock and which makes the part most likely unusable for your purpose. We can send you pictures on request.

The optical thickness of our 2" filters is 2mm. There are only very few exceptions where it is thinner, but none where it is thicker. Only our 50.4mm, 50x50 and 65x65 unmounted filters have 3mm thickness.

Yes, no problem - the focus position is similar to many 1.25" eyepieces, and they are slim enough so that they are comfortable to use.

The Contrast Booster is designed specifically for non-apochromatic optics. If you're using a non-APO refractor, this filter could be useful for enhancing contrast. A circular polarizer, however, works differently. It increases sky contrast depending on the angular distance to the Sun. It's effective when the moon is around 90° away from the Sun; it won't be effective at 0° or 180°.

In summary, the Contrast Booster and the circular polarizer serve different purposes and aren't directly comparable. They're not alternatives but could complement each other depending on your setup.

We actually haven't tried it out yet, as a reducer usually is not necessary for the CaK-filter (which operates at the native f/ratio of the tellescope), and the SolarSpectrum CaK-filters which work at f/30 are quite rare. But they should work quite nice in the monochromatic light in CaK, too. But they are not achromatic, so e.g. the focus point may be different compared to the H-alpha-line for which they are primarilly made.

Sorry, except for our photometric filters we don't provide data sheets. The O-III Super-G filter with 9nm HBW unfortunately has only low transmission at 495.9nm, it is centered at the main O-III line.
This has nothing to do with the preshift mentioned in our whitepaper. This shift is only used in our f/2 highspeed filters and will result in a correctly centered line if used together with f/2 optics.

Both, of course...
Both are broadband filters. The Moon & Skyglow is much broader and a little bit better suited if you have little little light pollution, and it gives you a brighter image. If your focus is on moon and planets plus deep sky under not too light-polluted conditions (e.g. on the country, but you can still see the lights of the city illuminating the sky), then the Moon & Skyglow is probably the better one.
The UHC-L is more focussed on emission nebulae, so it will dim the light of the stars or galaxies, too. It is better suited for observing nebulae under more lightpolluted skies and is not recommended for observing moon and planets.

If you have a 1.25" diagonal with T-2 threads, this part would work to fit the diagonal into a 2" clamp on your telescope. We recommend the improved version with Safety Kerfs to prevent slipping, the 3mm thread is long enough to ensure a strong hold.
If you have a 2" diagonal however with 2" SC Thread, we recommend instead our Baader 2" nosepiece, which doesn't narrow the lightpath to T-2 like the other nosepiece: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/eyepiece-clamps-nosepieces/baader-2%22-safety-kerf-nosepiece-with-2%22-filter-thread.html

For exactly this reason we have developed the 3D-printed Baader UFC Seal. This is a bit cheaper than an empty filter slider (or could even be printed by yourself for free if you have a 3D-printer, we provide the necessary files) and serves your descriped purpose.
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/imaging-accessories/universal-filter-changer/baader-ufc-seal-3d-printed.html

The T-2-thread of the #2956242 M42i x 0.75-ClickLock (Astro T-2 System) has got a thread of M42x0.75, while Vixen uses M42x1.
A male M42x1 is usually used on russian telescopes.
We haven't seen your specific telescope, but Vixen usually uses a female M43x1 thread (e.g. on the 80M/80Mf) or a much smaller M36,4-thread, not a male thread.

The M42x0.75 (T-2) Clicklock has also got a female thread, so it shouldn't fit onto the Vixen at all without an additional T-adapter.

You can find information on how to measure a thread here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/clicklock-clamp-for-your-telescope/

At the moment, we have no plans for a 2x telecentric system, as we developed them mostly for H-alpha-observations, where f/30 or larger is necessary - and a 2x TZ would require a telescope with f/15, buch such slow telescopes have come out of fashion and are no longer manufactured. There is no longer a market for a dedicated H-alpha-version like the old TZ2. We'll keep an eye on the market if there is demand for a 2x achromatic telecentric.

So far, we can offer you only e.g. the Baader Q-Barlow 1.3x/ 2.25x # 2956185, which you can use at 1.3x to 2.25x, depending on the distance to the sensor/eyepiece. For a barlow, the magnification changes with the distance, we have some information about the calculations in this PDF for the VIP barlow: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/240/product/1062/calculating_different_magnifications_with_the_vip_barlow.pdf

Maybe this is an alternative for you?

We are sorry - the PDF where this is explained is currently not online, because we are updating it.
The reference plane is the part of the eyepiece where the 2" nose piece connects to the wider eyepiece body.
The field stop is closer to the 1.25" nosepiece (so that the focus is similar to standard 1.25" eyepieces, where the field stop is close to the end of the 1.25"-nose piece).
In this case, the field stop is 26.9mm away from the end of the 2" barrel, and you have to move the focuser appromitaley one inch farther out when using a 2" eyepiece clamp compared to a 1.25" clamp

The triband coating is done directly on the Schmidt plate. Unfortunately we don't offer this individually but only as a complete telescope system.

Yes indeed, all our Laser Collis leave our house collimated

Unfortunately, no - you could install a quick release or maybe even a rotator on both sides of the Flip Mirror, but that's all. Even the Off Axis Guider for RCC Coma Corrector (RCC-OAG) # 2956950 only rotates by 140° - and for a Flip Mirror, this would require a much larger housing to keep the unit stable.
So, we don't have an alternative solution.

For a standard camera lens, we recommend the regular ASTF/ASSF film with ND5, which is also used for visual obervations. The Digital Solar Flter NF3.8 is intended for lucky imaging with f/ratios of ca. f/30 and will usually be much too bright on a standard camera, and there is no use in stepping down the camera lens as much as possible to avoid a much too bright image.
To find the perfect filter, you need to measure the outer diameter of your camera lens. If light might enter from the side because of the lens shade, please remove the lens shade so that the filter is flush with the lens.
Then check the red columns in this PDF https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/299/product/2984/baader_solar_filters_clamping_range.pdf to see which filters fall into the range of your diameter.

The filters are made of plane parrallel glass with IR-Cut dielectric coating and non-ageing sealed coating edges, so they can be stored like any other regular filter or telescope lens/mirror.

A D-ERF is "only" one piece of of coated and polished glass, so it doesn't need more care than any other high-quality optical element. However, you should keep it dry and avoid condensation.

The H-alpha-filters on the other hand contain oil which may freeze or crystallize, which is why they must not be frozen.

You can find some additional information about these filters in this blog post:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/tips-for-choosing-an-energy-rejection-filter-for-h-alpha-observations/

The Agena-Adapter will not work, as you will then have a male M48, thread, as far as I can see.
2"a / M48i Zero-length reducing piece (zero optical length) # 2454834 should work.

We never tried placing a prism behind the telecompressor, as it is intended mainly for photography and we had never thought of a use case where this might be necessary. We never tried it out and can't really give a profound answer, worry.
The glass path is 32mm, the optical length - that this the backfocus needed when you screw the diagonal into your system between two T-2-threads - is 35mm.
The black holes are only necessary to fit the adapter into the body of the diagonal and tighten or unscrew it. You can't change the orientation/stop point of the thread with them. This would only be possible with additional spacer/fine tuning rings, or a quick changer.

This is the same M34 thread which is used on our glasspath correctors and it is intended to accept these glass path correctors.

The focuser is designed for tubes with 8" diameter or more, so you may need some shims to nstall it.
51mm minimum height can only be achieved by removing the 2" eyepiece clamp with a M48, T-2 or M68 thread adapter.
For 2" eyepieces, 63mm is the minimum height, and our shortest 1.25" reducer would be Baader Pushfix Reducer 2" to 1¼" # 2408151 which adds one more millimeter.

This is the age-old discussion, if Zoom-lenses or fixed focal lengths are better...
The set with the Classic eyepieces will give you sharper images with higher contrast, and the 32mm will show you a larger field of view than the 8-24mm Zoom. The 10mm Classic Orthos are perfect for planetary observations and highest magnifications: They use only a few lenses and are perfect for faint details. On the other hand, the field of view is smaller than that of the Hyperion Zoom.
The Zoom, on the other hand, is not as sharp and crisp, but it is the better choice if you want comfort and a larger field of view at higher magnifications.
So, it comes down to your preferences and the telescope which you will use. If you are going for moon and planets at high magnifications, the Set with the Classic Plössl/Ortho is probably the best choice. If you are satisfied with the image of the Zoom which you already have and if you are using a shorter focal length telescope for deep sky, then the Zoom is probably better.
If you want both a large feld of view and very good sharpnes and contrast, then the Morpheus eyepieces are the way to go (although there is no Morpheus Zoom)

As on the website to read, this adapter only fits on the Baader T-Pod Aluminium Stativ 75-110mm and Baader Hardwood Tripods - unfortunately
not with the CG-5 tripod.

Yes, you can use the binoviewer with a C925 and achieve focus with a 2" star diagonal and without a glasspath corrector - but we do not recommend it.

Reason 1: The binoviewer requires about 11 cm of optical length, so when you place it in the beam of light of any telescope, its relatively small entry aperture is quite close to the telescope, where the beam of light is still rather wide. So, you cut of the beam of light, which causes loss of light and vignetting. Even with a 1.25x GPC, the whole binoviewer is placed farther to the back, where the beam of light is narrower.

Reason 2: You can achieve focus with any Schmidt-Cassegrain, but you do this by moving the main mirror closer to the secondary - and by doing this, you increase the focal length of the telescope, and because of moving the main mirror quite a lot, there is also a loss of aperture, because suddenly the secondary mirror is too small. This a rather complex thing, you can find a lot of information here: https://www.telescope-optics.net/SCT2.htm

The optimum back focus of a C925 is 5.475 inch (see https://www.celestron.com/blogs/knowledgebase/what-are-the-optimum-back-focus-distances-for-celestron-scts ), with a 2" star diagonal and a bino-viewer (and probably a 2" eyepiece holder), you are much farther away from the telescope.

So, although you can achieve focus, we still recommend using a T-2 prism, because they are smaller than 2" star diagonals (but still wide enough to not cause vignetting in front of a binoviewer) which can be connected directly to the binoviewer (which saves you several cm foor the eyepiece clamp) and at least a 1.25x gpc to further remove optical length and possible vignetting.

You can equip the star diagonal with a 2" nosepiece for comfort. You could save some more length by connecting it directly (or with a T-2-quick changer) to the telescope with a SC/T2-adapter, but a 2"-nosepiece is good enough.

It is also possible to change the GPC to change the magnification. If you want to use the 2.6x GPC, we'd recommend the GPCs Glasspathcorrector 1:1,70 for Baader-Binoviewer with T-2 thread (MaxBright II® and MaxBright®) # 2456316 and Glasspathcorrector 1:1,25 for Baader-Binoviewer with T-2 thread (MaxBright® II and MaxBright®) # 2456314.

This is just to avoid confusion: All these three GPCs are installed in the housing of the prism. The 1.25x GPC # 2456314Z and 1.7x GPC # 2456316Z (notice the Z in the item number) are installed in the binoviewer, while the 2.6x is always installed in the prism. If you chose the GPCs without Z, then they are all mounted the same way. If you mix them, then the 2.6x #2456317 is installed in the prism, and the 1.25x #2456314Z and 1.7x # 456316Z are installed in the binoviewer.

Yes, this is correct. The M55x1 thread starts 3.3 mm after the mounting surface and has a length of 4.6 mm

For the adaptation to the telescope, you can use Baader SC / HD Ultra Short T-Adaptor, 9mm optical length # 2958500B, yes.

The rest is a little bit tricky...

The field stop of the eyepiece and the camera sensor should each be in the same distance from the Flip Mirror.
The ZWO has got a beack focus of 12,5mm, when using the T2-thread (maybe a mm more with the 1.25"-nosepiece).
A standard 1.25" eyepiece usually has got the field stop more or less at the connection between the 1.25" nosepiece and the wider housing.
So, for a standard eyepiece, we'd recommend e.g.
Camera:
Baader Focusing Eyepiece Holder 1¼" / T-2 (T-2 part #08A) # 2458125 - length 29-35,5mm
plus 12.5mm for the camera backfocus makes 41,5-48,5mm distance (plus the thickness of the 1.25"-adapter of the camera)
Eyepiece:
Baader Focusing Eyepiece Holder 1¼" / T-2 (T-2 part #08A) # 2458125 - length 29-35,5mm
plus
Baader T-2 / 15 mm Extension Tube (T-2 part #25A) #1508154

With these two focusing eyepiece clamps, you should get both eyepiece and camera into the same focus.

The problem is that the focus point of a cross hair eyepiece is often different to that of a standard 1.25" eyepiece.

So, we need to know the focus difference between the eyepiece(s) and the camera. To find this, you'd have to pint the telescope at the stars or some far away object, focus with the eyepiece and - without refocussing the telescope! - switch to the camera and see if you can find focus by moving it away from the telescope. If this doesn't work, focus the camera with the telescope and then insert the eyepiece and see, if you can reach focus by movint it outwards. Then measure how much you have to move the eyepiece or camera to achieve focus. This is the length of an additional T-2-extension which you need either for eyepiece or camera adaptation to achieve focus. We have some with fixed lengths as well as the VariLocks which can be adjusted:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/extensions-/-focusing-adapters.html?filter_threads_eyepiecesided=2120

(Depending on the distances, you can also screw the camera to the T-2-thread of the Flip Mirror, but for a rather light-weight camera, the focusing eyepiece clamp should be easier to use, especially if you don't want the cemaera permanently attached to the Flip Mirror, or if you want to change it's orientation without using a screw driver)

The construction of the classic SC telescopes has not significantly changed in the last 25 years, the distance to the focus knob is still the same. Therefore we assume it will work.

Optically it makes no difference which way around you install it. But you will need the right mechanical parts/adaptors that fit on the telescope on one side and for the eyepiece on the other side.

The 0.7x reducer for the Celestron Edge 11" models has a longer backfocus of 146.05mm compared to the 8" models which have a backfocus of only 105mm. So for the 8" model the space including the Baader Steeltrack would not be enough, this information you surely got from our FAQ.

However, since the reducer for the 11" model has a longer backfocus, the backfocus will most likely be sufficient. When fully extended, our Baader Steeltrack takes up 123mm, leaving 23.05mm for the adapter and camera backfocus. This is very tight, but should just barely work.

Note that with this type of telescope, the position of the reducer is intended to be a certain distance from the corrective lenses. It's not like putting a reducer on a standard SCT. There's a group of corrective lenses in the Edge scopes. So make sure you screw the reducer directly onto the tube and then screw on our Steeltrack focuser. Otherwise, the reducer may not correct to the corners and the risk of unwanted vignetting will increase significantly.

You will be able to take beautiful photos of sunspots with the 80mm filter. But if you want the full resolution that is possible with your lens, it will make sense to use a bigger version, for example the 120mm ASTF. Unfortunately we cannot tell you a fdelivery time for this model righ now. Alternatively you can use the 115mm ASSF https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/solar/whitelight/assf-astrosolar-spotting-scope-filter-od-5.0-(50mm---150mm).html which contains the same filter foil and is available.

Our ClickLock clamps have various optical path length. You can see them by selecting the required Clicklock and go to the "Specifications" tab. You can also see all of them at a glance here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/media/images/baader-2inch-clicklock-system_technical_2021.jpg

Your Takahashi Telescope is a Petzval system, means there is a corrector lens built in the rear end close to the focuser. In this place, the light of the sun gets quite concentrated and the lens gets heated. But the telescope is designed for night use. This means that the lenses are not mechanically fixed in such a way that they can expand when exposed to heat. The danger is very high that a lens can burst due to the heat of the sun. Therefore, we strongly recommend a DERF in front of the telescope. A filter INSIDE the telescope can also burst due to heat.

There is no waterproof rating for the Morpheus and they are not nitrogen purged. The 17,5mm can be used with 1,25"

As we do not have the 27TVPH lens at hand, we cannot say for sure.

It will depend on how much space is inside the lens to accomodate the M56 and M68 threads.

The M56 thread has a length of 7mm, while the M68 is 5mm. The 2.7" one is 6mm.

This means that the length from the beginning of the M56 thread to the end of the 2.7" thread is 18mm.

Please make sure to measure the available space to avoid the adapter making contact with the lens group.

Could you please try switching to the German store view (clicking on the German Flag on top right corner). We've encountered this bug before and most of the time this trick worked.

The 2" ClickLock clamp of the BBHS mirror is eyepiece-sided. Telescope-sided this features a standard 2" nosepiece which can be inserted into any 2" clamp. For your Takahashi Mewlon we recommend the Mewlon AUX adapter https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-takahashi-mewlon-aux-adapter-m71m72-to-fit-2558230.html which converts the M71 male thread to an M72 female thread. Then you can use our 2" ClickLock M72a clamp https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/eyepiece-clamps-nosepieces/baader-2%22-clicklock-eyepiece-clamps.html#574=940 for a sturdy and easily manageable connection

The width of the T-2 dovetail is ~42mm according to Zeiss norm, the width of the M48 dovetail is ~50mm

Its M4 x 6 ISO4027

Unfortunately we do not find an information about the thread at the rear end of your telescope. Therefore we cannot answer your question if its possible to attach an Diamond steeltrack focuser. Generally you find all informations about available telescope adapters here in the manual of the focuser https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/175/product/2858/instruction_manual_for_all_baader_diamond_steeltrack_bds.pdf We have not yet tried but ZWO says in its "support list" that the EAF can be attached to our Diamond Steeltrack focuser: https://www.yuque.com/zwopkb/hardware/eaf-support-list

Here you find the manual of the Herschel Prism were this is explained in all detail https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1864/product/5279/instruction_manual_and_application_examples.pdf
(manuals for our products can generally be found when you scroll down the product page and click on the "download" tab)

The optical length with T-2 adapters threaded on both sides is 26mm. But in that case you could also use a simple T-2 extension, available in 7.5, 15 and 40 mm

For reasons of transport safety, all parts of the BFM II are mounted together as shown in the exploded view of this image https://assets.baader-planetarium.com/media/extendware/ewimageopt/media/inline/70/6/baader-flipmirror-ii-star-diagonal-8ef.jpg
We explain this also on page 2 of the instruction manual: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/1568/product/4285/instruction_manual_baader_flipmirror_ii_star_diagonal.pdf

You can further expand the 2" ClickLock with the 47mm extension with another 2" Safety Kerf Nosepiece Thread Adapter (# 2408156).

Alternatively, you can use our M48 extension tubes to select your desired back focus (e.g. using the 15mm, 10mm and 7.5mm extension tube): https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/extensions-/-focusing-adapters/m48-extension-tubes-(5--7.5--10--15--30--40-mm).html

Yes, it works fine - we have a description of the adaptation and the necessary adapters in the manual of the SunDancer II.

The camera has got rather small pixels, so you'll need good seeing, otherwise there will be slight over-sampling - but that's nothing to worry about.
The Celestron T-Adapter (C5, 6, 8, 9-1/4, 11, 14) # 820760 (US-SKU: # 93633-A)
https://www.celestron.de/ce_de/astronomie/zubeh%C3%B6r/fotografie/t-adapter-(c5-6-8-9-14-11-14).html
is designed for a backfocus of 55mm, so you may need some more T-2-extensions to reach the perfect back focus for yuo camera model if you use the T-2-thread. Fortunately, a Schmidt-Cassegrain is not too critical, so you don't need to keep the distance perfectly up to a millimeter.

If you want to use the reducer
Reducer / Corrector f/6,3 - mit 2-Zoll-Innengewinde # 820775
https://www.celestron.de/ce_de/reducer--corrector-f63---mit-2-zoll-innengewinde.html
you should keep to the backfocus for which it designed for (105mm, so it is 55mm, when you use the Celestron T-adapter mentioned above.

In any case, we'd recommend a focus motor like Celestron Fokussiermotor # 821160
https://www.celestron.de/ce_de/fokussiermotor-f%C3%BCr-sc-edgehd.html
It makes focussing much easier, when you can do it frmo the laptop, where you see the camera image, too.

Of course - no filter at the moment can block all LED light - but the most annoying thing about the most commonly used LEDs is the very strong blue peak you see in car headlights and (too) many LED sources that are unblocked in the blue. This is one of the main reasons for the increase in skyglow, and the new UHC-L is designed to cut out exactly these brightest wavelengths in the blue. The same goes for the H-alpha region, the blocking area is much closer to the H-alpha and SII lines, so less LED light (and traditional street light) is blocked. But still - the transmission windows are wide enough to provide a NEUTRAL appearance of the sky background. This preserves the ability to use the filter for visual purposes, without creating "dirty colors" like many other such filters do.

In addition, the filter has a much higher amount of coating layers, mainly aimed at blocking unwanted light outside the transmission range much more strongly than ever before. You will note this only while imaging though. The contrast is much better than with most traditional UHC Filters, because these are "only" for visual use and such a large amount of coating would not be necessary.

The new UHC-L is designed to provide the best results visually and photogtraphically.

Le diamètre du trou intérieur est de 77mm, 6x trous de vis M5 sont placés au centre autour du trou intérieur. Nous ne disposons malheureusement pas d'autres dimensions

Indeed, there was an error in the information provided with the product documentation regarding the Half Bandwidth (HBW) of the Ha D-ERF. Our internal investigation confirmed that the correct HBW of our Ha D-ERF is 80 nm, as supported by our published transimission curve.

The mention of a 45 nm HBW was an unfortunate mistake, likely due to confusion with a different product in our portfolio, and it seems to have gone unnoticed for some time. We apologize for the discrepancy and any confusion it may have caused. To rectify this, we have updated the information on our website and in our product documentation to accurately reflect the correct HBW of 80 nm.

In theory: yes. Its a telescope like any other telescope. But it has no conventional focuser (and we do not offer one that fits) so this may make it difficult working with an Quark.

The hole diameter is 21mm

The system is relatively good-natured as far as the distances are concerned, you do not have to compensate for the remaining 0.5mm.

it was bought new you should contact your dealer. However, in case you or any pre-owner had opened the eyepiece and brought those specs to that place inevitably, then there is no warranty sorry to say.

Yes, the 96mm are the ideal distance to the field stop of an eyepiece or the sensor of a camera.
Due to the parallel beam of light, you do not have to think too much about this value in practice if you use it as a "better barlow lens" - getting 40 or 50 mm closer or farther away should make no big difference.
The magnification also does nor change if you vary the distance.
However, if you use it in front of an H-alpha-filter, you should not get much closer to the recommended value - if you do, you will use your eyepiece as a magnifying glass which will show you the internal structures of your H-alpha-filter. There, it is much more important not to get too close to the telecentric.

In this case, with a reducer behind the filter, the distance between filter and telecentric is not defined because behind the telecentric all light beams are parallel to infinity. You only need to take care to have the camera in the right distance to the reducer. Here are more informations about the telecentric https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/129/product/1541/baader_telecentric_systems_tzs_for_h_solar_filters.pdf

We cannot answer your questions related to Staraid.ai website because this is not our UR, it belongs to the manufacturer, we are not responsible for the content. There is no driver and no software to control Staraid via PC because it is designed as stand alone guider for smartphone control. Unfortunately we also do not know when the manufacturer will implement which new features in future. Very sorry!

The TZ-4 will work very well with your f/12 telescope.

De tribandtelescoop laat straling door in het spectrale bereik van 380-400 nm. Dit omvat het calcium H-bereik.

Yes, indeed the FCCT II will also work with the QHY600M Ultra Short Version! With proper flatfields, the vignetting is manageable, but you need to set the tilt absolutely precisely on a full frame sensor to get a satisfactory result.

The well-know astrophotographer Michael Jäger already achieved very good results with very big sensors on the RASA 8":
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/rasa-8-extreme-images-michael-jaeger-with-fcct-f2-highspeed-filter/

We are currently analysing the new front flange design and are evaluating the necessary modifications for a potentially new FCCT-version. Please feel free to contact us to ask concerning the progress.

The MPCC does have a M48 2") filter thread, so it should be possible to screw it onto the Diamond Steeltrack® S58 to M48 BDS-Adapter # 2957204. But as the MPCC is then behind the focuser and not inserted into it, you probably won't reach focus.

For adapting any cell mounted Baader 2 inch Filter onto a camera lens with 58mm front filter thread you will need:
#2408166 Baader DSLR 2" Filter-Holder M48 / SP54: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-dslr-2%22-filter-holder-m48sp54.html
#2958058 Baader Hyperion DT-Ring SP54/M58 https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-hyperion-dt-ring-sp54m58-for-dtadapter-iiandiii-and-hyperion-eyepieces.html

Unfortunately we have to inform you that this inverter ring is indeed permanently attached, to guarantee a flawless function of the clamp for its meant purpose.

The MPCC needs to be attached to a camera adaptor or eyepiece, not to the focuser. Please see the manual: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/175/product/2859/instruction_manual_for_all_baader_diamond_steeltrack_bds.pdf

Yes, our Neodymium (Moon & Skyglow)-Filter can be used to obtain Luminance image and for later compositing into your LRGB images. It has also some LPS (light pollution suppression) function (which is of course not as strong as with a full Deek Sky UHC Filter).

If you are imaging from a very light polluted area it might be favorable to use our new Ultra-L-Booster-Filter for even more light pollution suppression:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-uhc-l-ultra-l-booster-filter.html

For maximum efficiency at dark locations a seperate true Luminance Filter would be beneficial for adding Luminance data to your RGB images:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/filters/l-rgb-cmos-filters/baader-uvir-cut--l-filter-%E2%80%93-cmos-optimized.html

All our current mounted filters are inside our Baader Low Profile Filter Cell (LPFC) which is 6mm in hight.

Yes, the DT-Ring SP54/M55 can be used for this purpose. Read more here: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/downloads/dl/file/id/444/product/1766/digiscoping_camera_adaptations_for_afocal_photography_and_eyepiece_projection.pdf

Yes, the thread is wide enough to accecpt another 1.25" filter, so you can stack them if desired (whether this really makes sense is another question). You can also connect the filter to a 1.25" c-mount adapter.

Diameter is 360mm

We are very sorry, we can only offer the adaptors you find on our website (search for "diamond"). There is none for your specific telescope. Maybe you find someone with a hobby turning machine or a machine shop nearby that can manufacture such an adaptor

The QHY533C is supplied with the Adapter Kit E1 as a standard accessory. From this Kit you are going to need Adapter E1-2 (you can fix a 2-inch mounted filter here) and the Adapter E1-3.

Additionally you need the 10mm Canon Adapter (Combo B2) for a direct connection to your Canon EF Lens. The Adapter can be found here:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/cameras/qhyccd-kameras/qhy-accessories/qhy-adapter-b-kits-for-qhy-268m-qhy600.html

The requested screw is a M3 x 5 knurled screw

The FWHM of the UHC-L Filter is wide enough for all optics, so you can use it with fast optics even at f/2 without any signal loss or bandwidth shift.

Please read here about informations how to observe the Halpha sun with an SC telescope https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/solar-observation-and-h-alpha-filters-for-schmidt-cassegrains/

A conversion is not possible (well, at least it would be much more expensive than a new focuser): The SteelTrack RT has got a longer draw tube and body than the Newtonian version. If you would put it oonto a Newtonian, either the drawtube would reach too far into the telescope and cause obstruction, or the whole body might even be too high to reach focus. So, unfortunately, it is usually not done with simply making an adapter to attach the RT-focuser to the telescope. You may want to take a look into the manual where we give the dimensions of the several models.

We do have several adapter for Skywatcher, especially
RT-Adapter M90x1.5 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957284 (for telescopes with male M90x1.5 thread)
RT-Adapter M90x1 Diamond Steeltrack® (Skywatcher) # 2957283 (for telescopes with male M90x1.5 thread)
RT-Adapter Ø 97mm Diamond Steeltrack® (Synta / Celestron) # 2957282
if the M68-adapter does not fit which is included in the scope of delivery of the SteelTrack.
Unfortunately, we do not know which adaptation is used on your specific model or if it has changed over the years.
On https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/clicklock-clamp-for-your-telescope/ , you can find a desription on how to measure a thread, if you don't know which thread is used on your telescope.

Yes. The #93625 ends up with a T2 male thread (M42x0,75) this wide T-ring has a female T2 thread. It´ll match. Please be aware that the
#93625 can be a bottle neck - it can produce obstruction (dark corners at the image) Depending what telescope you´re using a #93633-A or similar
could be a better solution.

That is correct. The QHY268C has an AR window only, so you will need to use an UV/IR Cut filter. The advantage with an AR only window is the fact that you can still do IR imaging with an IR Pass filter.

Note: This information was originally listed incorrectly in QHY’s manual that it did have an IR cut window but was later confirmed by QHY that it’s AR only and has been corrected in the manual.

Yes, our 50.4mm unmounted filters fit into the QHY CFW 3 filter wheel

This adapter adds 0.7mm to the optical length. All such technical data can be found on the product page under the tab "Specifications"

The Flange has an outer diameter of 99mm and the inner diameter to accommodate the mount is 60.2mm.

Unfortunately you will need to purchase #2956258. While its possible to remove the 3.3" counter nut, it is not possible to remove the flange which is permanently attached on the ClickLock clamp for improved and long lasting quality.

Which aperture does your binocular have? Looking at the specs, it looks like the ASBF 100 would be the only one that fits, clamped from the inside. However the ASBF 80 could also work clamped from the outside, but we would need to change the provided 13mm bolts to 10mm bolts. That is of course a bit more effort and would need to be done by the distributor in your country.