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What's the actual size of your 2" filters in "mm" with and without frame/ring? What step down adapter is suggested from a 52 mm to "-- mm"?
Question by: Waqas Ahmad on Oct 10, 2016 7:54:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
Question by: Anders G. on Sep 20, 2017 12:55:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
Is it correct that for using the 2" filter on a 58mm lens I need:
1. Baader DSLR 2" Filter-Holder M48/SP54: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-dslr-2%22-filter-holder-m48sp54.html
2. Baader Lens-Adapter-Ring SP54/M58: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-hyperion-dt-ring-sp54m58-for-dtadapter-iiandiii-and-hyperion-eyepieces.html
Thank you in advance
1. Baader DSLR 2" Filter-Holder M48/SP54: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-dslr-2%22-filter-holder-m48sp54.html
2. Baader Lens-Adapter-Ring SP54/M58: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/baader-hyperion-dt-ring-sp54m58-for-dtadapter-iiandiii-and-hyperion-eyepieces.html
Thank you in advance
Question by: Stefan on Jan 13, 2019 11:36:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
Can this be used with M48 extension tubes e.g. when getting a particular spacing and including UV/IR cut filter?
How thick is the filter excluding the male thread e.g. 8mm or 10mm?
When calculating thickness how much thickness can be subtracted e.g. filter is 2mm or 3mm thick and light path is reduced by a percentage of this.
As an example, I have an 30mm M48 extension tube. If I include this filter, how much path length does the filter take e.g. I also require a 20mm M48 to make an equivalent path length.
I have a ZWO camera and a ZWO T2 - M48 adapter with zero path length. I plan to screw this adapter into the UV/IR filter (how deep is the female thread) and attach this to my camera's T2 male thread.
Simon
How thick is the filter excluding the male thread e.g. 8mm or 10mm?
When calculating thickness how much thickness can be subtracted e.g. filter is 2mm or 3mm thick and light path is reduced by a percentage of this.
As an example, I have an 30mm M48 extension tube. If I include this filter, how much path length does the filter take e.g. I also require a 20mm M48 to make an equivalent path length.
I have a ZWO camera and a ZWO T2 - M48 adapter with zero path length. I plan to screw this adapter into the UV/IR filter (how deep is the female thread) and attach this to my camera's T2 male thread.
Simon
Question by: Simon Miller on Nov 15, 2020 4:08:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
Question by: Taehun Yun on Aug 18, 2020 10:11:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
Question by: Daniel on Sep 15, 2019 12:47:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
Why do you say the filter is only good for 100mm+? I have a 97mm Brandon apochromat. Will it work with it?
Question by: Glen Paling on Sep 21, 2020 8:11:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
Question by: anonymous on Nov 14, 2016 7:22:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
i have bought ZWO 1600 MC-Pro which does not have any IR protect window so was considering the high quality Baader UVIR Cut 2' Model. How can i fix this inside the Camera cell, do i need to buy any separate attachment?
Question by: Naiteek on Jul 18, 2018 7:49:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
Question by: Piotr on Nov 20, 2021 12:21:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
In the description for this filter it says the UV cutoff point is at 400nm: "Blocks UV below 400nm and IR above 680nm"
But in the specifications it says the transmission range is 420-680nm. So which one is it?
But in the specifications it says the transmission range is 420-680nm. So which one is it?
Question by: Bill on Nov 21, 2020 9:40:00 PM | 1 Answer(s)
I'm setting up a Celestron RASA for one shot colour imaging with an APS-C format cooled CMOS astrocamera and Baader UFC spacer stack.
I want to remove the 2mm thick built-in RASA glass filter plate and replace this with an IR-cut 2" filter with coating stack designed for F2. The latter will be positioned in the UFC. I'm concerned not to interfere with the nominal BFL of 72.8mm by changing optical elements. I think the correct Baader filter to use in this case is 2459207A whose thickness is not specified on the product page. Can you confirm is this the right filter please?
Thanks
I want to remove the 2mm thick built-in RASA glass filter plate and replace this with an IR-cut 2" filter with coating stack designed for F2. The latter will be positioned in the UFC. I'm concerned not to interfere with the nominal BFL of 72.8mm by changing optical elements. I think the correct Baader filter to use in this case is 2459207A whose thickness is not specified on the product page. Can you confirm is this the right filter please?
Thanks
Question by: Tony Owens on Feb 12, 2018 3:15:00 PM | 2 Answer(s)
Hi, I am using a ZWO178MM camera for lunar and solar imaging, should I be using the uv/ir filter when imaging the moon or sun ? Or should I be using IR pass filter ? Thanks.
Question by: Simon on May 29, 2018 10:50:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
How much light is transmitted, i.e. light loss subtracted in percentage of the incoming light, compared to exit value?
Question by: Jan Lauritzen on Sep 26, 2021 2:42:00 AM | 1 Answer(s)
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Information about Baader Filters and Filtercells
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HALOS – viewed without prejudice
The moment you insert any type of filter into the optical setup, which consists of your specific camera, the appropriate flattener/reducer or coma corrector and the telescope, the filter becomes part of this unique optical system. And every optical system is different because many products from different manufacturers are involved. All optical surfaces interact with each other in some way. One possibility is that coatings of the camera reflect unwanted light back into the telescope and onto all optical elements in front of the filter. If there is no other optical surface that will reflect the light back to the filter a second time, then it is perfect. There are no halos other than residual halos or scattering, which are unavoidable, depending on the filter design. That's what we mean by our slogan "no halos, no ghosting, no reflections" on our product pages. A filter rarely produces halos itself, which are created inside the filter by internal reflections (this happened to us once in 2015, but we replaced all of these filters). Because the moment there are other surfaces near the filter, it is much more likely that light will be reflected from one of those surfaces, creating halos that...
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Unmounted Filters – which side should face the telescope?
For our CMOS-optimized filters we have created the following images showing which side of the filter should face the telescope.
LEGACY FAQ for older unmounted CCD-Filters without black outer rim
Question in Detail:
I just bought LRGB 36mm unmounted filters. I have question: which side of filter should be placed towards telescope? Is it better way of distinguish than "more shiny surface towards telescope"?
Answer:
Always put the more reflective side towards the telescope side. To guide you we already put a small arrow on the filter rim, on those filters were the position matters. This arrow indicates which face of the filter should be directed towards the sky (telescope-sided). All cell-mounted filters are already oriented in a way that the most appropriate filter face is facing the sky when the filter would be mounted directly onto the front end of the nosepiece of a camera.
If you mount your filter the other way, any reflected light would have a short way to the camera sensor, resulting in a higher risk of getting some kind of back-reflections inside the camera field. Many sensors have highly reflective areas near to the light sensitive area, also the area with the bonding contacts is sometimes highly reflective.But: this is true only for instruments without optical elements near to the focal plane. If you have f.e. a coma corrector, field flattener, focal reducer, focal extender (to a lower degree due to concave surface), or in extreme cases a whole lens group for more complex field corrections a few centimeters in front of the filter it could be useful to flip the filter against the rule from above (thus having the arrow pointing away from the telescope). Cause in such cases the likelihood of reflections from the sensor could be lesser then fort- and back- reflections from such glass-surfaces. If in doubt, it helps to make some test images from a star field with bright stars, using the filter in both ways for comparison.
Should you really have some reflections with both positions it can be more effective to add a spacer between filter and camera, eventually shifting the reflection out of the image field. With focal correctors having curved surfaces changing the filter-lens distance could help also.
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HALOS – viewed without prejudice
For our CMOS-optimized filters we have created the following images showing which side of the filter should face the telescope.
LEGACY FAQ for older unmounted CCD-Filters without black outer rim
Question in Detail:
I just bought LRGB 36mm unmounted filters. I have question: which side of filter should be placed towards telescope? Is it better way of distinguish than "more shiny surface towards telescope"?
Answer:
Always put the more reflective side towards the telescope side. To guide you we already put a small arrow on the filter rim, on those filters were the position matters. This arrow indicates which face of the filter should be directed towards the sky (telescope-sided). All cell-mounted filters are already oriented in a way that the most appropriate filter face is facing the sky when the filter would be mounted directly onto the front end of the nosepiece of a camera.
If you mount your filter the other way, any reflected light would have a short way to the camera sensor, resulting in a higher risk of getting some kind of back-reflections inside the camera field. Many sensors have highly reflective areas near to the light sensitive area, also the area with the bonding contacts is sometimes highly reflective.But: this is true only for instruments without optical elements near to the focal plane. If you have f.e. a coma corrector, field flattener, focal reducer, focal extender (to a lower degree due to concave surface), or in extreme cases a whole lens group for more complex field corrections a few centimeters in front of the filter it could be useful to flip the filter against the rule from above (thus having the arrow pointing away from the telescope). Cause in such cases the likelihood of reflections from the sensor could be lesser then fort- and back- reflections from such glass-surfaces. If in doubt, it helps to make some test images from a star field with bright stars, using the filter in both ways for comparison.
Should you really have some reflections with both positions it can be more effective to add a spacer between filter and camera, eventually shifting the reflection out of the image field. With focal correctors having curved surfaces changing the filter-lens distance could help also.
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Off-standard single filter sizes from Baader - why not:
Quite often we receive requests for a single filter in an off-standard size. In all cases we are sorry that we must answer as follows:
Sorry (we know it would be so very much cheaper in production - and we would be so much more flexible to fill special requests) - but we have decided long ago to not cut or saw our filters from large plates because this would leave the coating stack open and mutilated (with microscopic cracks) all around, prone to aging and peeling.
Many times we had the chance to inspect our competitors filters after several years of use (due to our 30+years of servicing SBIG-CCD-cameras/and filter wheels) and we realized already 15 years ago how moisture and heat stress can deteriorate even most modern hard coatings, slowly peeling off from the carrying substrate over time, unless the coating stack is sealed all around the filter stack.
As a consequence - in order to create our filters to remain impermeable - we only offer all filter substrates already cut to final shape and run each substrate on an double deck auto-polisher to achieve perfect optical flatness and freedom from cone errors.
Then we do individually coat these substrates in 500 pc per run as minimum to fill a complete coating chamber, in a way that the coating stack (many times 50+ layers) applied onto each filter won't reach to the very edge of the round or square substrate, so that the coating stack remains completely sealed from all sides. In this way we can ensure that our filters will not age at all.The sad effect is that we cannot offer other sizes unless the inquired production quantity were in the range of 250 to 500 pc (depending on size) and the tooling rings or square holders will be paid for, which serve to precisely center each individual filter substrate within the rotating calotte inside the coating chamber. Sorry - as explained above - we just will not coat onto large plates and cut any shape from them, also because such large plates cannot be polished optically flat in the same way we do it.
For your most urgent need and for single piece solutions we can only recommend to order the next larger size of our respective filter and have that cut to shape by an ophtalmologist locally. We can supply the round filters without the metal cell in such cases; square filters come without cell in any case.
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