Please visit the website https://staraid.ai/support/faq/ for many questions and answers about the StarAid Revolution.
This entry was posted on August 13, 2019Last modified on May 4, 2020.
Question: With eyepiece projection, the image at the edge is extremely blurred. What could be the reason for this?
For eyepiece projection with our Morpheus and Hyperion (zoom) eyepieces, we recommend a distance between eyepiece and T-ring of 40 mm on full-frame cameras, in addition to the 55 mm that were the flange focal distance of all "SLR" and DSLR camera bodies for decades when a T-ring was placed in front. Only with a T-ring that maintains this distance can old lenses with a T-thread deliver sharp images. Therefore, it has been tried to take this distance into account in all designs, because this is the only way to ensure that the sharpness performance is optimal. Of course, all this is only valid to a...
Thanks for bringing this to our attention! On page 8 of the SD II Controller manual we have indeed noted an error. With variant 2 (manual homing), steps 1+2 must first be carried out as in variant 1, not steps 1-3 as incorrectly indicated. We apologize for the inconvenience. The corrected manual can be downloaded here.
To successfully connect the SteelDrive II Controller with the SteelGo II Software using Windows 7, current virtual COM-port drivers need to be installed.
This entry was posted on November 14, 2017
Dark horizontal streaks or stripes in the spectrum are caused by dust deposits on the slit plate of the spectrograph. A partial attenuation of the spectrum results from dust spots (“Donuts”) on the camera sensor.
Let's start with the slit plate of the spectrograph. A dust grain deposited on the slit becomes apparent across the spectrum as a horizontal, dark line perpendicular to the spectral lines. The more frequently the DADOS is attached to the telescope, the more dust can penetrate. And dust can also penetrate through the 1 1/4 " nosepiece of the slit viewer when changing the guide camera.
Cleaning is critical and not recommended because wiping on the slit plate would cause serious harm. Gently blow away dust from the slit plate...
This entry was posted on July 12, 2017
Quite often we receive requests for a single filter in an off-standard size. In all cases we are sorry that we must answer as follows:
Sorry (we know it would be so very much cheaper in production - and we would be so much more flexible to fill special requests) - but we have decided long ago to not cut or saw our filters from large plates because this would leave the coating stack open and mutilated (with microscopic cracks) all around, prone to aging and peeling.
Many times we had the chance to inspect our competitors filters after several years of use (due to our 30+years of servicing SBIG-CCD-cameras/and filter wheels) and we realized already 15 years ago how moisture and heat stress can...
For our CMOS-optimized filters we have created the following images showing which side of the filter should face the telescope.
LEGACY FAQ for older unmounted CCD-Filters without black outer rim
Question in Detail:
I just bought LRGB 36mm unmounted filters. I have question: which side of filter should be placed towards telescope? Is it better way of distinguish than "more shiny surface towards telescope"?
Always put the more reflective side towards the telescope side. To guide you we already put a small arrow on the filter rim, on those filters were the position matters. This arrow indicates which face of the filter should be directed towards the sky (telescope-sided). All cell-mounted filters are already oriented in a way that the most appropriate filter face...
Please visit our website www.astrosolar.com/en/faqs for many questions and answers on our solar products, such as AstroSolar Film, Solar Viewers and mounted Baader Solar Filters.
Question in Detail:
I just received a Baader 2" Clicklock TAK-adapter M72. After a few uses it's spinning where it shouldn't. If I hold the inside on the bottom near where it threads onto the scope it works. Can you tell me what to do? Can I repair it?
This might be a mistake done here during assembly. Please try this fix. If it does not help please return the Clicklock clamp to us or to your dealer, we apologizie.
Actually the 2"/M72 ClickLock is consisting of the M68 ClickLock and the Adapter M68/M72. There are 6x M2.5 screws underneath the M68/M72 Adapter. These prevent the M68 thread from rotating. It seems that they where not properly tightened. If you grab the very small...
If you want to create absolutely beautiful color photos of bright deep sky objects (entry level) and wish to work with sophisticated techniques of Astrophotography (and the correct tracking), then your camera is ideal. For advanced working with long exposure times, i.e. with narrowband emission line filters, the DSLR is less suitable.
The reason is partly in the manufacturer’s narrow cut filter that is installed before the camera’s sensor only allows some of the main wavelengths (H-alpha and S II) to penetrate by a fraction over the prolonged exposure time.
Even if this limitation was lifted by conversion to a suitable astro cut filter, which lets through red, colour CCD sensors for photography with narrowband line filters are not ideally suitable as only every fourth...